Amarkot (Umerkot)

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The Amarkot (Umerkot) fort, 2015 photograph by Taha Siddiqui

Contents

History

Early history

The Sodhas settled in the region of Thar Parkar ages before the Marwar empire came into being. Sodhas are a part of the Parmar clan of Rajputs mainly settled in or around Thar desert. The other relevant Sodha state is Muli in Saurashtra part of Gujarat. (Kirtiraj Parmar, Roots Web) Amarkot was once part of Jodhpur- Marwar. (Akshay Chavan, Roots Web)

Umerkot is famous for the birth of Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1542, when his father Humayun fled from military defeat at the hands of Shershah Suri. The then Umerkot ruler Rana Prasad gave refuge to Humayun and his wife Hamida Bano and their son Akbar was born in the fort in very difficult conditions.

Legend has it that Humayun had nothing to distribute as a token of happiness on his son’s birth. He had some musk which he broke into small pieces and distributed among his well-wishers with the desire that the fame of his son would spread everywhere like the smell of musk. (Mohammed Iqbal, The Hindu )

Vignettes about the kingdom and its history

Taha Siddiqui, Footprints: Once upon a time in Umerkot, The Dawn Jan 16, 2015

The boundary wall is damaged in many parts. The signboards that should give information to visitors have faded in the sun. The staircase leading to the top of a watchtower has many missing steps.

This is the fort of Umerkot or, as it was once called, Amarkot. Not only has its history been ‘Islamised’ by overlooking its original builder, Amar Singh, who used to rule this region, the heritage site is also facing slow extinction.

Locals here will tell you the famous story of Umer-Marvi — a local Romeo and Juliet folklore — and how Marvi was kept at this fort, built by Umer Soomro who once ruled Sindh.

Vikram Singh, who is from the Sodha family, a sub-tribe of the Rajputs who settled in Umerkot in the 11th century, calls the official history of the fort, inscribed on signboards around the place, “a bunch of lies”. Pointing to the fort, he slams the government for not “giving credit to our ancestors for building this”.

Vikram, who shows us around the fort that he insists once belonged to his ancestors, laments the current state of affairs in this part of Sindh which borders India and is called the gateway to the Thar desert.

“Rana Rattan Singh, one of our ancestors, was hanged by the British at this very fort for standing up for the rights of the Sindhis, but there is no mention of him anywhere,” Vikram points out as he shows us the place where the execution took place.

Just a few kilometres from the fort is the birthplace of Mughal emperor Akbar. Humayun was given refuge by Vikram’s ancestors when he was on the run after Sher Shah Suri overthrew him.

“We gave protection to many Muslims seeking refuge, and the person who went on to become one of the greatest rulers of the region was born here. Yet today, the Hindus in this region are on the run,” Vikram remarks.

Vikram’s first-cousin, Hamir Singh, is the present Rana of what was once the kingdom of Amarkot.

At his ancestral home built over a 100 years ago on the outskirts of Umerkot, Hamir Singh is surrounded by villagers. Many are wearing colourful turbans and they have come to pay their respect to the Rana.

Hamir’s grandfather, Rana Arjun Singh, had opted for Pakistan at the time of the partition of the subcontinent. The family says their historical roots in Sindh made Rana Arjun Singh choose Pakistan over India. “He loved Sindh and did not join Congress even though Nehru had personally approached him,” Hamir tells us.

But now the family appears to regret that decision.

“This area used to have a Hindu majority,” Vikram explains. “But migration has been on the rise.” He mentions the persecution of the Hindu community, religious intolerance, and the government’s lack of interest in improving inter-faith harmony for Hindus, especially the trading community, as factors making them want to leave. “Many of them are now settled in India,” Vikram says.

Most households have strong connections with India as the Hindus here tend not to marry within their community and try to find a bride or a groom across the border. Currently, the population of Umerkot is estimated to be equally divided between Hindus and Muslims. At the time of partition, Umerkot was estimated to be 80 per cent Hindu.

“Unlike Punjab, Sindh’s border regions remain neglected,” says Sohail Sangi, a teacher at Sindh University who belongs to Umerkot.

According to Sangi, the military has been in control of most of this region under the pretext of it being next to India, but has not bothered developing it. He blames this on their “paranoia of anyone not Muslim, and not from Punjab”.

Umerkot’s rich culture and history is something to be proud of, Sangi says, but instead Pakistan continues to forget the diversities it has.

Published in Dawn, January 16th, 2015



Hindu king acceded to Pakistan despite Hindu majority

In 1947 the Hindu Raja of Amarkot, Rana Arjun Singh, acceded to Pakistan despite a Hindu majority (more than 80% in 1947).

Why?

A top-ranking R S S leader recalled in a lecture that Amarkot was on very bad terms with a neighbouring Rajput- Hindu ruled kingdom. Whatever the ruler of one kingdom did the other did the opposite. So when the neighbour acceded to India, Hindu- majority Amarkot went over to Pakistan.

The following theories have been adapted from Why did the Hindu king of Amarkot opt for Pakistan despite a Hindu majority in the state? By Sandeep Bansal, Jagat Bakshi, Ram Raghuwanshi and Ayushya Khanna on Quora

This is one of the best kept secrets of the partition of India.

Almost 50% population of the area was Hindu even in 2016.

Theory 1 The main reason was Mr Jinnah’s generous offer to border princely state of India to accede to Pakistan (see the book The last days of the British Raj). Jinnah was keen to attract some of the larger border states, hoping thereby to attract other Rajput states to Pakistan and compensate for the loss of half of Bengal and Punjab. He offered to permit Jodhpur and Jaisalmer to accede to Pakistan on any terms they chose, giving their rulers blank sheets of paper and asking them to write down their terms, which he would sign.

Two princely states Junagadh(Muslim ruler) and Amarkot despite of almost all Hindu population accepted the offer of Jinnah and accede to Pakistan. The royal family of Umerkot still has a jagir of 48.6 km2 along with historical fort and palaces there.

Jaisalmer refused. Hanwant Singh (Jodhpur) came close to signing. However, the atmosphere in Jodhpur was in general hostile to accession to Pakistan. Mountbatten also pointed out that the accession of a predominantly Hindu state to Pakistan would violate the principle of the two-nation theory on which Partition was based, and was likely to cause communal violence in the State. Hanwant Singh was persuaded by these arguments, and somewhat reluctantly agreed to accede to India.

Five other theories Some other reasons might also have affected the decision of Rana Chander Singh: i) Hindu Muslim unity of Sindh before partition. ii) Rana Chander Singh’s love for and pride in Sindhi culture.

iii) The area is economically dependent on fertile areas of Sindh (Sindh river valley especially Karachi) and it was too far from any major city of India. Ram Raghuwanshi adds, ‘Amarkot/ Umarkot lies in Sindh…. and there is whole Thar desert between [the bnearest] Indian state and Amarkot. On the map it may look connected to India but [actually] they have to cross whole desert to reach India.

Another reason is that the rulers of Amarkot had a good understanding with Muslim politicians. So they thought it will not be a big issue to remain in Pakistan. The king of Amarkot later became a founding member of PPP and then a federal minister in Pakistan.

iv) Nehru and the Congress at the time, driven by socialism had made it quite clear that they would not allow the Kings and Princes much say in the governance of their former realms. As socialists, they were bound by their ideology to take a hard stance against the monarchies of India.

Jinnah was not bound by any such ideology and was willing to offer monarchs more leeway if they chose Pakistan. He tried to woo the King of Jodhpur also and the king was seriously considering joining Pakistan before V.P Menon got to him.

The Rana of Umerkot was under the impression that his interests would be better protected in Pakistan as opposed to socialist India.

v) With Umerkot’s realm coming inside the Pakistan-side of the Radcliffe line, Umerkot decided that being a part of Pakistan was inevitable anyway. If the prince pretended to join willingly, he may even get a favorable deal from Jinnah and Pakistan.

According to Vikram Singh, his grandfather Rana Arjun opted for Pakistan because of his love for Sindh and hatred for Congress. “This area used to have a Hindu majority,” Vikram explains. “But migration has been on the rise.” He mentions the persecution of the Hindu community, religious intolerance, and the government’s lack of interest in improving inter-faith harmony for Hindus, especially the trading community, as factors making them want to leave. “Many of them are now settled in India,” Vikram says.

In 2016, the population of Umerkot was estimated to be equally divided between Hindus and Muslims. At the time of partition, Umerkot was estimated to be 80 per cent Hindu.

Rana Chander Singh (d. 2009)

Pakistani Sodha Rajput leader Rana Chander Singh (standing) with the Prime Minister and founder of Pakistan People’s Party Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto. From The Hindu

‘The Rana was a very revered man in Sindh for being a staunch Hindu in a Muslim state.’ (Akshay Chavan, Roots Web)

(Khalid Bin Umar wrote on Roots Web) Rana Chander Singh belonged to one of the most important ruling clans in Sindh being the rulers of Umerkot (Thakurs of Tharparkar in Sindh). His father Rana Arjun Singh preferred Pakistan because geographically it is a part of Sindh. They still have very big land holdings there.

Rana Chander Singh always won the election independently which is a quite amazing in view of the country. He was almost worshipped there in Umarkot primarily because he was a man of very sound character having a very good personality. His son Rana Hamir Singh was also a member of the provincial assembly and minister in local government and is still active in politics. One of his sons Bhopal Singh married and settled in USA . The late Rana lived mostly in Islamabad because of his involvement in Politics. The fort of Umarkot where Akbar was born was taken over by the Pakistan government. So their their actual residence was at Rana Jagir 16 km from Umarkot Fort.

Rana Chander's mother was also a revered figure, Dev Kumari, was held in great respect by the people of Umarkot. She was an institution in herself.

Rana Chander Singh was also a founding member of Pakistan People's Party. He died in Karachi on August 1, 2009. (Dr. Sumanta K Bhowmick, Roots Web)

Mohammed Iqbal added on The Hindu

Rana Chander Singh had close ties with Rajasthan, married as he was to the daughter of Rani Lakshmi Kumari Chudawat, a long-time Congress politician, folk historian and writer of Rajasthani dialect based in Jaipur. His daughter is also married in Jaipur and the couple have a 25-year-old son here.

Elected to the Pakistan National Assembly several times and also a Federal Minister, Rana Chander Singh was 78 and was unwell ever since he had a paralytic attack in 2004. His body was cremated with traditional Rajput rituals in his native village, Rana Jagir, in Umerkot district this past Sunday.

Rana Chander Singh was a founding member of Pakistan People’s Party (PPP) and a close associate of its founder and former Prime Minister Zulfikar Ali Bhutto. He was elected to the National Assembly four times between 1980 and 1990 before he parted ways with the PPP and established his own party, the Pakistan Hindu Party, to work for the welfare of the minority community.

He designed his party’s saffron flag with the ancient Hindu symbols, “Om” and “trishul” (trident), which fluttered at the historic Umerkot fort. He served as the Federal Minister for Agriculture, Revenue and Narcotics and was also the Chairman of the National Commission for Minorities.

Rana Chander Singh’s grandson Shatrunjay Pratap Singh told The Hindu [shortly after his grandfather’s death] that his grandfather was held in high esteem in Sindh province by both Muslims and Hindus. He was given a grand musical welcome when he visited Umerkot a fortnight [before his death] taking a break from Karachi where he was being treated.

The erstwhile rulers of Umerkot entered into marital relations with the Rajput families in Rajasthan after Independence as they found it difficult to get suitable matches in Pakistan in the absence of the counterpart Rajput clans. Rana Chander Singh’s wife, Subhadra Kumari from Bikaner, lives in Umerkot.

The Rana’s daughter, Sangeeta Kumari, is married to Narpat Singh, serving as Deputy Director with the National Institute of Agricultural Marketing here. Their son, Shatrunjay, runs a heritage hotel in the city.

2009-10: Hamir Singh is crowned Rana

Sunny Sebastian, Pakistan's Umerkot gets a new Hindu ruler, The Hindu, May 30, 2010

Rana Hamir Singh

JAIPUR: A successor to the former Hindu ruler of Umerkot, the late Rana Chander Singh, was anointed in Pakistan this past Sunday. A large number of Hindus and the predominant Sindhi Muslim population of Tharparkar, Umerkot and Mithi -- places not far from the Indo-Pakistan border -- joined the stately procession of Hamir Singh, who was crowned the 26th Rana of Rajputs, also referred to as the Rana of the Thakurs of Tharparkar.

The 53-year-old Hamir Singh, son of the late ruler who passed away in August 2009 and the scion of the Sodha-Parmar clan, is a political person. He held the portfolios of Science and Technology and Agriculture as Minister during the second tenure of the late Pakistan Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto. A popular figure among the people of the border districts and three times MLA, he also worked as the deputy Nizam of Umerkot.

The leading Pakistani newspaper The Dawn reported the event in a report datelined Mithi, the headquarters of Tharparkar district, on May 25: “The coronation, held at the playground of Govt. Boys' High School, drew a large number of elders of the community and the local elite. People belonging to different faiths turned up to watch the event. The ceremony began with the entry into Mithi of a convoy of hundreds of vehicles from Rana Jagir (Rana's native village near Umerkot) .When the caravan stopped at the old Naka (checkpoint), two girls sang aarti in praise of a deity during which worshippers held a platter containing incense”.

The coronation ceremony was a gala event, which for any Indian onlooker would have resembled the crowning of a Rajasthani prince of yore --for Umerkot is only 40 km from Khokrapar, the first railway station in Pakistan if one enters from Rajasthan's Barmer district.

Rana Hamir sat on a colourfully decorated chariot even as the Thakurs, donning traditional headgear, stood on both sides of the road. Pir Ladhu Singh, the guardian of Pir Pithoro shrine, put a golden crown on the head of Hamir Singh marking the continuation of the 800-year- old tradition.

“Both the Hindu and Muslim communities recognise the authority of Rana. This part of the Thar in Sindh is called Dhata and Rana of Amarkot is Rana of Dhata,” said Hamir Singh, talking to The Hindu from Umerkot on phone. Like in the case of the former royal families in Rajasthan, the Rana has Thakurs placed directly under him while the Muslim tribes are represented by the “Pradhans”.

“An area spread over 22,000 sq km follows this tradition and, irrespective of religion, accepts us. The coronation was a public affair with the full involvement of all the communities,” said Mr. Hamir Singh, who maintains his links with India, especially Rajasthan, the home of many of his people, the Sodha Rajputs.

Monuments

Shiv Mandir, Umerkot

This section is courtesy Revolvy.com

Shiv Mandir, Umerkot

Shiv Mandir is a Hindu temple situated in Umerkot, Near Rana Jahangeer Goth, in Sindh, Pakistan. In a way there also comes Hazrat Nimano Shah Dargah.

Importance

This temple is divine and sacred among the Hindus residing in lower Sindh. It also provides shelter to many of the pilgrim in their miseries.

Deity

The temple has magnificent Shiv Lingam, which is indeed one of the best in the whole world. Legend says that the Lingam kept growing itself until locals marked the height to literally observe the growth.

Festival

Besides every year on Maha Shivaratri there is a huge three-day festival with several hundred thousand pilgrims from surrounding cities.On Maha Shivratri, Shiv Mela Also take place it comprises different entertaining deeds and it also has several programs for the awareness of people about the Maha Shivratri And the history of the Shiv Mandir. On Maha Shivratri many Pilgrim from lower and upper Sindh come there and most of them stay the three days long till the festival ends. It is also a place for tourists even it is one of the oldest Hindu's worship places.

History

It has been said that almost thousands of years ago a man used to nourish cows there, there was wide grown grass so that man used to came there and nourish the cows but one day he noticed that a cow used to go somewhere else and gives her milk to that Lingam which was not so much out of the land that time. The man keep observing many days that what is there and why she is giving her milk to that Lingam. Then people came there and checked then they considered that as a Shiv Lingam and built the Shiv Mandir.( Not confirmed whether it is real or fake but rumors are this ).

See also

Sodha

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