Kothuru

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Weavers

As in 2022

Samdani MN, January 7, 2023: The Times of India

While tie-and-dye techniques are practised across the country, experts say Kothuru’s designs and patterns are unique. The Union textile ministry recently sent a team to the village to see how the rare skills of its craftsmen can be promoted
From: Samdani MN, January 7, 2023: The Times of India

You might not have heard of Kothuru but this Andhra village could soon be a name on the international fashion circuit. Set on the banks of the Krishna river near Macherla in Palnadu district, it is the only village in the state that produces handloom saris and dress material with innovative tieand-dye patterns.


Taking note of Kothuru’s potential, the Union textile ministry recently sent a delegation to the village to find out how the rare skills of its weavers and dyers can be promoted. It has decided to position brand Kothuru as a unique fabric in the globalmarket and create marketing avenues for the artisans. In fact, Kothuru fabrics are exported to the UAE, US, UK, Indonesia, China, Singapore, Malaysia and EU nations.


Although tie-and-dye is a traditional technique practised in the handloom sector across the country, fashion pundits say the designs and patterns made by the small settlement of artisans in Kothuru are unique. Sadly, these immensely gifted artisans are struggling to make ends meet because they work as wage labour for master weavers and merchants who provide them raw material.


“We could be a big brandif the government comes forward to set up a small handloom cluster and buyback facility here,” said Leela Koteswaramma, a woman artisan who was designing dress material when TOI visited. 
Vangara Ramarao, a tieand-dye veteran, said Kothuru could well be Andhra’s own brand in handloom fabrics as such material is notproduced elsewhere in the state. He complained that the middlemen mis-sell their cloth as “Pochampalli”, which is a famous tie-anddye style from Telangana.


“Making fabric – be it for a sari or dress material for girls, or men’s shirts – in thetie-and-dye fashion requires skill and a lot of patience. You need an eye for detail and a mind that can create new patterns,” said Ele Tirumalaiah, another veteran.


For example, it takes five days to weave 28 metres of dress material. However, themaster weaver pays Kothuru’s artisans only about Rs 2,000 as wages for it. So, the artisans earn Rs 400-500 a day, but the master weaver pockets far more than them on every piece, the artisans said.


“A Pochampalli-style sari requires material worth Rs 4,000-5,000 but sells for Rs10,000-12,000. After paying Rs 2,000 as wages, the master weaver makes about Rs 5,000 per sari,” said another artisan. That’s why they want the state and the Centre to invest in facilities for them. Some of Kothuru’s artisans already work as master trainers in special camps organised by government and private agencies.


Senior Central officials who visited the village were surprised on seeing Kothuru’s innovative designs. “The local artisans are not only skilled in making garments but also have the capability to enhance India’s image in the global garment market,” said Aparna Deshmukh, additional director, commissionerate of handicrafts. Seeing the artisans’ exceptional design skills they have decided to develop and promote Kothuru as a tie-and-dye hub in the state, she added.


The Union ministry’s commissionerate has spent three months assessing Kothuru’s potential by organising several interactive sessions with the artisans. “They are experts in making garments with both silk and cotton,” said Sudheer Kumar, another senior official. 
Chillapalli Mohan Rao, chairman of Apco (Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers’ Cooperative), also promised to visit Kothuru to make a roadmap to develop it as a brand.