Revision as of 12:08, 12 January 2017

Udhampur

Prof Neeraj Dubey,Time to explore Udhampur "Daily Excelsior" 20/12/2015

Panoramic view of Udhampur

Udhampur is an important district which was one of the largest district of the state before bifurcation of its territory which led to a separate district of Doda. Udhampur district is important not only because of the location of the Headquarter of Army Northern Command, but also because of no. of Tourist and Pilgrim centre. Udhampur town is the headquarters of this district. Patnitop and Sudh Mahadev are also tourist places. Major attractions in Udhampur city include Gole Market, Devika Ghats, Jakahni Park, Ramnagar chowk (Pandav mandir), Salain Talab, and the Main Bazar.

HISTORY: – Udhampur had been named after Raja Udham Singh, the eldest son of Maharaja Gulab Singh, the founder of Dogra rule in J&K. The town is said to have been built in place of dense forests to which Udham Singh occasionally went on hunting trips. He developed great love for the spot and chose it as site for a township. Udhampur – the fifth largest district of the state is situated in the southern part of J&K State. The district lies between 32 degrees – 34 minutes to 39 degrees – 30 minutes north latitude and 74 degrees – 16 minutes to 75 degrees – 38 minutes east longitude. The district having an area of around 3000 sq. kms. Due to altitudinal variation ranging from 600 meters to 2000 meters, there is wide variation in temperature in different parts of the district. The temp. rises sometimes as high as 42- degrees celsius a very seldom goes below 1.5 degrees Celsius in low altitude areas. May, June, July are the hottest months, while December, January, February are the coldest months.

CULTURE:- The culture of this area is PAHARI which resembles the culture of other areas of Duggardesh. The other part of the district has Dogra culture. Dogri is the main language spoken by the people of the district. The Dogri spoken here is known for its sweetness in tone. Their main language is DOGRI/PAHARI. The language is the rural and hilly areas has maintained its native purity, accent and sweetness. Gojri is also spoken by the Gujjar Community settled here and there. However, Dogri is main language spoken in the district. The district is culturally an integrated part of Jammu region and all important religious fairs like Lohri, Maha Shivratri, Id-ul-Fitr, Holi,Ramnavmi, Baisakhi, Basant-panchami, Martyr’s day of Guru Arjun Dev, Raksha Bandhan, Janam Ashtami, Mahanavami, Dussehra, Diwali, id-ul-zuha, Guru Ravi Dass’s b’day, Mahatama Gandhi’s b’day Guru Govind Singh’s b’day, Chacha Nehru’s birthday. Above all, the Independence Day & Republic Day are celebrated with great enthusiasm. Holy Navratras also provide special occasion for worship and pilgrimage to holy places culminating into small to big fairs. The Dogras of Udhampur are stout people with a tradition of culture and chivalry going back to the hoary past. Their contribution to the cultural heritage of India is Priceless. The dialects of the area are Dogri, Pahari and Gojri. The folk dances are Kud , Yatars and Bhangara. Kud dance is based on traditional dogri folk and performed mainly in Panchari and Dudu-Basantgarh. The folk songs of the district are Lok Geet, Bhakha etc. Bhakha are certain songs sung independent of musical instruments. The Sudh-Mahadev , Krimchi , Panchari , Mantalai , Kud , Patnitop are the important attractions of the district. Sudh-Mahadev :- It is situated at distance of 42kms from Udhampur. During the time when Lord Shiva married Parvati , the daughter of Raja of Himachal at this place, there lived a cruel person named Sudeva who was a extortionist and used to put the people of this area to great miseries. Mahadeva put him to his doom. In this way after the name of Sudeva and Mahadeva, the place became famous as Sud-Mahadev. Every year , pilgrims in thousands from in and around Jammu province pay their obeisance to Mahadeva at this place on the occasion of Jeshta-Purnima. Holy Devak originates from here. It is called Gupt-Ganga. In the south west of Sudhmahadev there is Gouri-Kund spring named after real name “Gouri” or Parvati Devi.

Krimchi :- A small village situated at a distance of 10 kms from Udhampur. It is famous for old ancient temple called Pandavas temple.

Ramnagar :- It is a hilly area and a largest Tehsil of district Udhampur , which is famous for its ancient temples , Forts and Palaces, namely called Sheesh Mahal.

Panchari :- A small village situated at a distance of 37 kms in the North West side of Udhampur. It is Famous for natural charm , hilly spots , lush green and good climatic conditions. It is also called Mini-Patnitop.

Importance of River Devak :-

The holy Devika River flows through the Udhampur town which is famous for its spiritual and sacred values. This river has got a great importance & spiritual significance like Ganga especially for the people of Hindu’s and Sikhs community, which after performing the last rites of human body on the bank of river Devika immersed their ashes in the devika river. It is seen that the ashes gets disappeared very soon after immersing.

In the end , it is worthwhile to mentioned here the five natural characteristics by which Udhampur town is famous for :- Hawa(Air) , Badh(Pipal) , Bakhay(Gossips) , Bhodi(tree) & Bhayian( Natural Spring ). The author like to conclude this article by these sweet lines, “Udhampuray Dey Sharay Di – Tuseygi Gal Suna – Jeethey Char Pasey Rounsali Tarah – Jeethey Far Far Chuldi Hawa.”

(The author is Sr Faculty – GCET Jammu )

Heritage temples circuit of Udhampur

Arvind Kotwal, Heritage temples circuit of Udhampur "Daily Excelsior" 3/7/2016

Heritage Temples circuit

The Shivalik foothills of Jammu are dotted with innumerable heritage sites: forts, temples and bowlies some of which date back to over a thousand years. Udhampur, stands out in the Jammu region for having the largest concentration of ancient temples located in clusters or alone all over the district . These temples are fascinating for their antiquity and architecture. Of particular interest are the Temples of Manwal, Ladan Kotli and Kirmachi dating back to the 8th-11th century AD, which not only make for a compelling circuit but also a idyllic soujourn through the foothills.

Manwal is located at a distance of about 70 km from Jammu. A diversion from the Jammu–Udhampur national highway near Domail leads towards the undulating and scenic Jindrah-Dansal valley (similar to dun valleys in the Shivalik hills in Uttrakhand or Himachal Pradesh) and thereon to Manwal. Another approach to Manwal is via the Mansar lake which though a little shorter, is a bumpy drive. Manwal, in the ancient times went by the name Babbapura as mentioned in the Rajtarangini and was possibly during this time the capital of the Duggar(Jammu) region. The place is also linked with Babruvahan of the Mahabhartha on account of the name Babbapura and is believed to have been built by him. Later the name got distorted to Babour. The villages of Manwal and Thalora on the Udhampur-Dhar road have among themselves five ancient temples scattered over an area of one square kilometer viz. the Devi Bhagwati Temple, the Dera Temple, the Kala Dera-l Temple and the Kala Dera-ll Temple and the Nand Babour Temple. These temples dating to 10th-11th century AD were grand edifices but have considerably lost their original shape over time. Architecturally, these temples mark a high point in temple building in the Jammu region for the uniqueness of their form and features. The temples are generally positioned on high platforms with stairs leading up to the mandapa in front of the garbhagriha. Large pillared halls – mandapas in front of the sanctum sanctorum differentiate these temples from the earlier ones of the region making each temple appear much bigger in scale. The fluted columns around the mandapas which are reminiscent of the Hellinic columns and may perhaps suggest influence of the Greco-Roman architectural style are another interesting feature. The temples were devoted to Shiva, Shakti and Vishnu and are richly embellished with carvings of Gods and Goddesses. The Devi Bhagwati is the only living temple where local folk still offer prayers.

Coursing along the Dhar road from Manwal towards Udhampur one reaches the Jakheni chowk in the Udhampur city. Here, one takes a road towards the Ladan power house also popularly called the Chenani power house on the opposite bank of the Tawi. After crossing a bridge over the Tawi and a couple of kilometers short of the power house, the road forks off to the right taking a gentle upward incline. Vehicles have to be parked on the wayside and after a short climb uphill one comes upon one of the most remarkable temples in the region. Standing in solitary splendor in the hamlet of Ladan Kotli is the Jallandara Devi Temple. Dating back to the 11th century AD the temple is quite like the temples of Chamba and Bharmour. An example of the nagara style, the temple has a curvilinear shikhara and profuse carvings of dieties besides floral motifs and geometrical designs. The temple is said to have been made by king Jallandra of Trigarta, which in those times was the name for Kangra. A singularly stunning feature of this temple is the erotic carvings on one of the exterior walls quite like those found on the walls of Khajuraho temples!

Back on the Udhampur-Jammu national highway one has to take the Udhampur-Lander road from the Supply Morh in the army cantonment. At a distance of 10 km is the famous Kirmachi group of temples. Oddly enough, there is still no road right up to one of the most impressive heritage sites in Jammu region. However, a short walk from the village along the Biru Nallah leads one to the magnificent group of temples perched atop a small hillock. Dating back to possibly the 8th-9th century AD the complex consists of four temples which stand on an elevated platform with the fifth one standing on a lower level in a corner of the complex. Fine specimens of the nagara style, it is not difficult to miss the similarity of these temples with the Bhuvneshwar temples albeit on a smaller scale, and the alikeness to the temples of Chamba and Bharmour. Like the Manwal temples, fluted columns are found here at the entrances of the sanctum sanctorum of the temples. Legend has it that Kirmachi was founded by Raja Kichak of the Mahabharta. History, however, speaks of it as the capital of the Bhutiyals, the ruling clan of this region during this period. Excavations have revealed pottery and brickwork indicating that these temples stand on a site which dates to the Gupta period. Mostly facing east these temples are devoted to Lord Shiva.

As is the belief in the hills, these temples are associated with the agyatvas of the Pandavas and are locally called Pandu temples which further adds to their allure. The Archeological Survey of India is doing a great job in maintaining the Manwal and Kirmachi temples. It is significant that these temples are located along what was a thriving trade route in the ancient and medieval times. With good road links from Jammu to Udhampur and back, enthusiasts can embark on this circuit and visit these temples in one day. This circuit holds tremendous potential of becoming a popular tourist destination. Tourists and heritage aficionados can have an entirely satisfying day in exploring the priceless heritage of our region. Even yatris from Katra can be brought on this circuit in a reverse direction on their way back from Mata Vaishno Devi via Tikri. Our past has laid out this interesting circuit; all it requires at present is good promotion and marketing.

( The author is Deputy Commissioner Commercial Taxes)

The land of natural springs

Chander M. Bhat, The land of natural springs "Daily Excelsior" 21/2/2016

Natural Springs

Udhampur popularly known as ‘the land of Druva’ ,‘the land of Bowli’s’ and land of Devika, Headquarter of District, is named after Raja Udham Singh, the eldest son of Maharaja Gulab Singh, the founder of Dogra rule in Jammu and Kashmir. The town is said to have been built in place of dense forest where Udham Singh occasionally went on hunting trips till he developed great love for the spot and choose it as site for township. District Udhampur lies between 32 degree 34 minutes to 39 degree 30 minutes North Latitude and 74 degree 16 minutes to 75 degree 38 minutes East Longitude.

The altitude of District Udhampur varies from 600 meter to 3,000 meter above sea level. The District is situated in the South-Eastern part of Jammu and Kashmir State and is bounded in the West by Rajouri District, in North-East by Doda District, in the South-East by Kathua District and in the South-West by Jammu District. Udhampur is also known as Devika Nagari

Total population of Udhampur town is 116727 souls as per census of India and the area of Udhampur city is about 6 square km. Udhampur city abounds with a number of natural springs locally known as Bowli. The water of these Bowli’s is hot in winter and cold in summer. Maximum population of Udhampur in the wee hours goes to these Bowli’s for having a refreshing bath and also takes water from these Bowli’s for drinking purpose as it is said that the water of Bowli is good for digestion. Temples, shady trees, big rocks, peepal trees, etc are usual accomplices of these Bowli’s, where Hindus pay their obeisance, kneel down in prostration and have ablations.

There is a cluster of eight Bowli at Devika Temple. Each Bowli has its own significance. Three Bowli has been earmarked for bathing purposes and others are used for temple use. The water of these bowli is being offered to Lord Shiva by the people and one can see a huge rush of devotees in morning hours. A grand fair is being held at Devika on the eve of Baisaki which lasts for two and a half day. People from far off places from Jammu region participate in this fair. There is an ancient Shiva Temple on the bank of holy Devika. On the days of Soma Amavasi and Baisaki a large of number people from Udhampur and adjoining villages throng this shrine for having a dip in the Holy Devika.

Bowli at Devika Temple

Devika shrine has the unique distinction of enjoying the esteem of every community alike. Pilgrims make their way towards this shrine in good numbers belonging to different races and ethnic groups. They wish to pay obeisance and get their wishes fulfilled.

There is a natural spring at village Londana near Battal Ballian in Udhampur and people suffering from skin ailments are being cured after having a dip in the spring. It is believed that this is due to shrine Shakti of Baba Londana. But scientifically the water has been seen to have sulpher smell.

Billan Bowli : This bowli is situated behind Head Post Office Udhampur. There is a Shiva Temple in front of this bowli. The water of this bowli is crystal clear and is good for digestion. People residing near this bowli use the water of this spring for drinking purposes. The name of this locality is also known as Billan Bowli Mohalla.

Kallar Bowli : This bowli is situated near Kallar on the western side of Udhampur on Dhar Road. There is a Shiva Temple adjacent to this bowli. Lust green water is oozing from the hill and the same is being stored in a pond build in the year 1953 by the residents of this locality.

Khartairi Bowli : This bowli is situated at Sangoor, Barrian. One can also reach this bowli via Udhampur by pass road. There are two Bowli’s one is covered and other one is open. The open one gets the water from the hillside. There is a Chinar tree in the compound of this temple. There is a Shiva Temple in the area of this bowli and the area comprises of about three kannal of land.

Mian Bagh Bowli : This bowli is situated on the left side of Air Force road. An ancient Shiva temple is also situated the complex of this bowli.

Ratairi Bowli : This bowli is situated on railway road near pump station, Udhampur.

Saken Bowli: Sakan in Dogri means the relationship between two wives of a person. These bowlis are situated near Udhampur railway station. The origin of these bowlis is one outlet from the bottom of the hill and the water is being diverted into two ponds equally.

Sansu Bowli: This bowli is situated near Supply Morh Udhampur enroute Pancharisome 4 km from Udhampur city. There is a shiva temple on the side of this spring.

Mongu Di Bowli: Mongu Di Bowli is situated near Devika Ghat and the bowli has been constructed by a pious person named Mangu in the year 1941. The same person also constructed a big pond at village Panthal enroute Katra and the pond has been named after him as Mongu da Talab.