Malhar
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Malhar
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Where a rhythm of antiquity resonates in sculptural wealth.
It is time to delve into the historic treasure of Chhattisgarh's most ancient town. Malhar's antique charm and mesmerizing sculptures create an ambience that can never be forgotten by archaeologists, historians and passionate travellers. Malhar lies on an ancient route which connects Kaushambi with Puri on the south-eastern coast of India. Bharhut, Bandhavgarh, Amarkantak, Kharod, Malhar, and Sirpur are a few major towns on this route. Malhar always had the benefit of this strategic location and witnessed cultural and political developments all throughout.
Malhar's excavations are famous all round the world, among them is a clay seal bearing the letters 'Gamasa Kosaliya' meaning 'Of Village Kosala' in Brahmi script. Discovered at Malhar, it can be dated to 200 CE. Various forts, coins and excavations point to the fact that the Maurya dynasty once ruled and influenced Malhar. After the Mauryas, Malhar came under the Satavahana rule. Many epigraphs are testimony to the fact that the Vakatakas and the Guptas also enjoyed rule over this region. After their fall, local dynasties like the Sarbhapuriya, Panduvanshis, and the Somvanshis ruled over Malhar and a major part of Dakshin Kosala. The Kalchuris ousted the Somvanshis and ruled for about seven hundred years from Ratanpur till the advent of the Marathas in this region.
EXCAVATIONS AT MALHAR
Malhar's rich soil has witnessed the reign of many mighty kings and supreme dynasties. It has seen the rise and the fall of kingdoms, the proof of which is buried deep in its soil. Extensive excavation work has revealed immense sculptural wealth here. The excavations at Malhar show continuous inhabitation and antiquity from the second century BCE to twelfth century CE based upon the discovered sculptural specimens. During this period, Malhar was influenced by many religions, like the Buddhist, Brahmanical and Jain. Various copper, lead, and potin coins bearing several symbols like elephant, Ujjain-symbol, peacock and Kartikeya were discovered at Malhar. All these coins may be assigned to the Pre-Christian era. Few silver punch-marked coins were discovered from the area around the fort.
Satavahana Period
Lots of idols and seals dating to the Satavahana period are found here. Notable discoveries include punch-marked square copper coins, cast coins, several Satavahana coins with the elephant's symbol, finished and semi-finished beads of semi-precious stones, antimony rods, and terracotta art. A coin enthusiasts' paradise, Malhar also has many coins dating back to the Kushan dynasty. Among these are the coins of Vima Kadphises, or the Kanishka Emperor I. It is very interesting to know that, coins found during this period bear the engravings of various brave warriors. The most exciting revelation of Malhar, relating to the Satavahana dynasty is the terracotta sealing, bearing the legend 'Gamasa Kosaliya', (Of the Village Kosala) in the Brahmi scripture of the second century CE. One more clay seal discovered here bears the legend 'Vedishri'.
Societies and brick houses excavated here are proof that habitation began here very early, during the Satavahana period. Brick constructions and habitats are protected by mud walls, mostly for protection against floods. Entire palaces and majestic shelters have been dug out of the mysterious earth in Malhar!
Sarbhapuriya and Somvanshi Period
Even before the Dakshin Kosala and Kalchuri period from 425 - 655 CE, Chhattisgarh was ruled by the mighty Sarbhapuriyas and Somvanshis. This was a truly golden era as many reforms took place during this period. Art and culture found creative expression in the most extraordinary forms. This period was marked by houses built of stones, baked bricks and rammed floors. Wares and vases bearing beautiful inscriptions like 'Mahaswami '(Great-Lord), in late Gupta Brahmi script belong to this period. A rare clay seal bearing inscription 'Maharaja Mahendrasya' in the Gupta Brahmi characters was also discovered from an excavation site. Various temples were discovered during the excavation which suggests that a tremendous drive was in practice for building religious structures. You will also be surprised to know that two Buddhist shrines belonging to the Vajrayana sect were also discovered in Malhar. An image of a Vajrayana deity is found and preserved at the Malhar museum.
Kalchuri Period
The historic soil of Malhar reeks of many legends. During the Kalchuri dynasty's reign, Emperor Kokalladev's son Shankargan attacked Kosala from Dahal Mandal. He even won over Pali, but the victory of the Kalchuri dynasty could not progress with the same speed as the Somvanshis too had geared up and become powerful. They drove the Kalchuris out of Tumman. Later, Kokalladev II's 18 sons were readied for battle. Kalingaraj was the one among them to conquer Kosala again. He was successful in establishing Tumman as the capital of the Kalchuri dynasty once again. After him, Kamalraj, Ratanraj I and Prithvidev reigned Kosala. The rule of the Kalchuri dynasty on Malhar started with the regimen of King Jajallaya Dev. During the supremacy of King Prithvidev II, Malhar's Mandlik administrator was Bramhadev. After Prithvidev, his son Jajalaya Dev II initiated the construction of the Kedareshwar Temple by giving his permission to a Brahmin called Somraj for the same. The same temple is called as the Pataleshwar Temple today and is one of the most famous temples of Chhattisgarh. Plain red ceramics dominated this period and houses were built from red bricks.
Pataleshwar Temple
Pataleshwar means the Lord of the Nether World. The Pataleshwar temple is an intricate, complex structure in which the sanctum is located below the ground floor (Pataal). Major renovations and repairs seem to have been done in the last decade of the twentieth century CE. Constructed on a high raised platform, the temple has grand entrances from three sides. In front of the sanctum lie the pillared Mandapa, and the doorway boasts of life-size statues of the River Goddesses. The doors are beautifully decorated and lateral faces of the door-jambs are carved with five panels each. Mesmerizing depiction of Lord Ganesha, various Shiva-Parvati scenes and secular structures are embedded in these panels. The Vestibule or Antraal has a staircase which takes the devotee down to the sanctum to a beautiful Shivalinga. An open Nandi Mandapa is constructed in front of this temple. Today, this temple is the main attraction at Malhar and it is under the vigilance of the Archaeological Survey of India. Dedicated to Kedara, another name for the revered Lord Shiva, this temple is a remarkable testimony of many living legends.
Maratha Rule
Kalchuri dynasty's last ruler was Raghunath Singh. In 1742 CE, Nagpur's Raghoji Bhonsle, under the vigilance of his leader Bhaskar Pant, travelled from Orissa, and Bengal through Chhattisgarh. He waged war in Ratanpur and conquered it. This way, the Kalchuri dynasty's rule over Chhattisgarh ended after 7 centuries.
Chaturbhuja-Vishnu of pre-Christian Era
Malhar is home to the most treasured sculptures and art-forms. Malhar is one of the most important centers of art where art-activities can be observed from second century BCE to the Kalchuri age. A Chaturbhuja-Vishnu image, discovered here in 1960, bears a Prakrit inscription in Brahmi script which is assignable to 200 BC. This is probably the earliest creative representation of Lord Vishnu. Many such idols relating to the Shaiva religion have been found here along with dilapidated remains of the Shaiva temples.
Confluence of Various Religions
Rare sculptures of Shiva, Kartikeya, Ganesha, Skanda Mata, and Ardhnarishwar have been discovered in Malhar. Buddha sculptures and idols are a reflection of the progress that was achieved in Malhar during the 7-10th Century. Idols of Buddha, Bodhisattva, Tara, Manjushri, Hevajra, and many more Buddhist Gods have been discovered here. This is truly a reflection of the Buddhist religion spreading fast in this region. Sacrosanct sculptures of many Jain saints like Ambika have been found in Malhar.
Origin of Shiva Temples
During the 10-13th century, Malhar has witnessed the creation of many breathtaking Shiva Temples. Notable among which is the famous Pataleshwar Temple. During this golden period intricate stone carvings of Shiva, Ganesha, Kartikeya, Vishnu, Laxmi, Surya and Durga have been crafted. Malhar boasts of sculptures in a variety of stones like granite, redstone, and light yellow coloured limestone.
Accommodation
Lok Nirmaan Divisions' shelters at Malhar are quite comfortable. There are various luxury hotels available in Bilaspur for an enjoyable stay.
=How to reach
By Air
Raipur (148kms) is the nearest airport well connected to Mumbai, Delhi, Nagpur, Bhubaneswar, Kolkata, Ranchi, Vishakhapatnam and Chennai.
By Rail
Bilaspur railway station is located at a distance of 33kms on the Bombay- Howrah main line.
By Road
Taxis and regular busses are available on the Bilaspur-Raipur road to Malhar (27kms).