Paithani sari
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As in 2023
Swatee Kher, April 2, 2023: The Times of India
From: Swatee Kher, April 2, 2023: The Times of India
Every Maharashtrian bride dreams of owning a Paithani sari, and three generations of Yogesh Awankar’s family have woven them at their handlooms in Nagade village, about 2km from Yeola in Nashik district. The Awankars operate 20 handlooms, but since each sari can take from a month to four, buyers have to be patient. They also need to dig deep into their pockets because a real, handwoven Paithani can cost up to Rs 11 lakh. That’s why, until very recently, these expensive saris were not found in every wardrobe.
Actor Sonali Kulkarni considers herself lucky to possess a few. “My first Paithani was a gift when I became an aunt,” she says. “I like to drape a dhoop-chhaav (dual shade) Paithani sari. The blue shades are amazing. The one close to purple and another called Chintamani are my favourites. ”
New Shades Of The Old
The Paithani is much more than an heirloom – it is considered auspicious, which explains its long legacy as a wedding essen- tial. But as wedding fashions evolve, the weavers have kept pace by making the fabric suitable for lehengas, evening gowns, dupattas, purses, and even the partition (antarpath) for wedding ceremonies.
“The 5. 5-metre sari will always be wanted but there is a demand for something new. We now offer 4m fabric with a thick border for lehengas or designer blouses or even the antarpath,” Awankar told TOI.
Where the traditional Paithani came in only seven colours, brides can now choose from over 2,000 shades and at least 100 designs. The weavers also offer Paithani dhotis, turbans, shawls and wraps for men and children.
Purists Vs Experimenters
A famous Marathi film song, ‘Padravarti Jartaricha Mor Nachra Hava’ (pallu should have a dancing peacock in zari), captured Paithani’s allure for a bride. And purists like Kavita Patil, who has a doctoral degree in the Paithani weave, caution against losing the weave’s essence to commerce. “There is diversification, and new experiments, but the original Paithani weave should not be lost,” Patil told TOI.
However, designer Gautam Gupta of the Asha Gautam label is all for experimentation. He was among the first to introduce a Paithani lehenga. “We first turned a few saris into lehengas. It was difficult and took time… But Paithani does not have a limitation. Weavers in Yeola could make 4m fabric for the lehenga or 6m, as required. ” Now, they co-create with the artisans and introduce new motifs from nature, like flamingoes and colourful landscapes, he told TOI. While Gupta has combined organza with Paithani applique, and Kota fabric with a Paithani border, others have taken the Paithani pallu and blended it with Bandhani.
Change Key To Survival
All this change is helping Paithani thrive. Sravan Kale, whose family owns one of the 2,000-odd handlooms in and around Yeola, said: “It isn’t just the golden butti, border design and the pallu. Customers want dupattas or blouse pieces or even their own designs woven on the Paithani. ”
Dilip Kapse of Kapse Paithani Sari in Yeola said a US-based couple has commissioned a pallu of their own design. “They sent us a photograph. We got the drawing and the design made to fit our handloom and are working on the sari. ”
Awankar said the weaving usually takes longer with custom designs. For a sari, they weave zari borders and the pallu, but the fabric for a lehenga needs a thicker and intricate zari border on one side. Fabric for men’s jackets also needs a thick design. But their efforts are well-rewarded as, from each 25m tagaa (bolt) of Paithani fabric the weavers can now sell pieces for children’s clothes or men’s jackets.
2,000-YEAR-OLD WEAVE
The Paithani sari, which has been captured on celluloid, in theatre and in Raja Ravi Varma’s paintings, is part of India’s ancient heritage. It is named after Paithan, a town in Maharashtra’s Aurangabad district, although both Paithan and Yeola are important centres of sari weaving A 2008 report from the ministry of textiles states handwoven textiles like Paithani have existed for more than 2,000 years in their original patterns and are woven with the same techniques even today. Over centuries, the influence of kings and dynasties brought new designs to the Paithani and it bloomed under the patronage of the Peshwas
