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| Edit summary/reason (summary) | p3OCKH <a href="http://duzdjsrllrif.com/">duzdjsrllrif</a>, [url=http://ufmapeiskunh.com/]ufmapeiskunh[/url], [link=http://xjizwknyqret.com/]xjizwknyqret[/link], http://gslvijlpitnx.com/ |
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[[Category: Pakistan |L]]
[[Category: Places |L]]
[[Category:Name|Alphabet]]
[[Category:Name|Alphabet]]
==Food Street ==
May 06, 2007
REVIEWS: Food lovers’ paradise
Reviewed by Fouzia Mapara
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File: Lahore Food Street.PNG| Lahore Food Street |frame|500px]]
Shazia Iftikhar may have been born in Karachi but she is a ‘Lahori’ at heart. Her book is a delight for anyone who loves Lahore and the delectable culinary delights that the city has to offer to the glutton as well as the gourmet. The book covers a fair bit for tourism. Its unusually interesting accounts and recipes would pull anyone to Food Street.
Those familiar with Lahore are aware of how deep-rooted the city’s historical and traditional values are. Today it is becoming a fast-paced, modern metropolis with slick stores and impressive malls in sharp contrast to the winding old streets lined with little houses that share connecting walls amid the hustle bustle of the mystical gates.
In an attempt to endorse her views on Lahore, the author quotes Tahir Lahori, “Lahore’s weather being conducive to a healthy, happy lifestyle, no wonder the people of Lahore enjoy good food, are well-dressed and happen to be great singers.”
The book features various delights of the Food Street including Afghani tikka, raan roast, fry chaanp, Lebanese tandoori fish, Phajjay ke paye, fried batair, chargha fry masala, kali mirch wali handi, taka tak (kata kat in Karachi); you name it and it’s there.
The book, a treat for food lovers, packages Food Street recipes in a simple format with full-page, coloured, mouth-watering pictures.
The book is inspired by people living abroad, who once visited Food Street and went back to distant lands, battling with continuous experimentation to achieve the magical flavours that they had once tasted.
So for all those who long to revisit, Food Street ke Zaiqe will transport you to the heart of Lahore with its quaint balconies, kahwa cups, the atmosphere aromatic with saag being cooked; it is a different world out there. This is your chance to cook up the delights to perfection without having to go through self-employed ways and means to achieve the taste once experienced at Food Street. It gets even better when you can have the real taste at your own table without having ever gone to Food Street. Either way, it is not a bad deal.
The author vividly writes the food culture of the city giving the reader maximum vicarious delights and sketching picturesque scenes of a vibrant lifestyle where crowds break into “ballay ballay” to celebrate wedding festivities, triumph over a kite captured in the blue skies, or a victory over a cricket match.
There is also a historical account of Lahore, the city being the cultural seat with its tree-lined boulevards and beautiful parks. In the morning you may see streams of people running on jogging tracks after which they may opt for a hearty breakfast of lassi, halwa puri, paye, kulchay and more.
The Food Street, which was inaugurated on October 20, 2000, is located in Gowalmandi. The book portrays the evolution of Gowalmandi from an area inhabited by milkmen supplying milk to the British and other foreigners during the British Raj. Eventually the milkmen and their cattle moved out but the settlement retained its original name and food lovers still flocked to Gowalmandi for fried fish and harissa.
Food Street ke Zaiqe celebrates the 200m-long Food Street with nearly 40 shops on each side, out of which about 15 sell other stuff but the rest focus solely on gastronomic fare.
It is frequented by 5,000-6,000 people everyday and no less than 10 to 15 thousand people at the weekends. It is amazing how the busy street during the day is shut for traffic precisely at 7:00pm to transform into a humongous dining room with tables and chairs laid all over.
Cuisine offered here grew from the little places known to a die-hard Lahorite. For instance, ice cream at Beadon Road and Yaseen’s halwa puri to fuel the Lahorite passion for a hearty breakfast. The author writes about Gowalmandi’s harissa and trips to Dabbi Bazaar for Maula ki mash ki daal, chikar chholey, chargha, batair, succulent barbeque meats and the unforgettable Phajjay ke paye.
The book offers innovative recipes like doodh gosht and various types of stuffed parathas. If you are not content with the kunna gosht and the regular karahi or boneless karahi is not exciting enough, for the more adventurous palate, there is jungli karahi made with a bit of game like batair, venison along with regular chicken and mutton, for the special taste of hunting. There are even recipes for how Russian Salad, coleslaw and burgers taste on Food Street. For the sweet-toothed, there is a variety of recipes on halwas, mithais and firni. All in all, the book offers substantial value in its 130 pages.
Food Street ke Zaiqay
By Shazia Iftikhar
Waleed Publishers.
E-5 Civil Aviation Authority, Gulberg III, Lahore
Tel: 042-5850296
ISBN 969-9055-00-6
130pp. Rs225
==Food Streets: part II==
'' India Harmony '' Volume - 2 : Issue - 1, 2013
[[File: food sreets.png||frame|500px]]
Lahore is a foodie's delight and it would be a folly
ask anybody how much food he can consume. Guests who have loaded themselves with
sandwiches and junk food to their fill, are often asked to
accompany the host for “food” , for, in Lahore food
means “Khaba” and not “Khana”. Traditionally,
Gawalmandi and Mazang are the two main places
frequented by visitors and where there is a glut of every
kind of food.
Although '''the three food streets in Lahore''' (one each at
Gawalmandi, Anarkali and the “area” adjacent to the
Badshahi Mosque/ Lahore Fort complex ) are the most
popular haunts frequented by people for gastronomic
delights, there are several other places too frequented by
the city's denizens.
There are many names associated with the traditional
foods in Lahore, like Phajjay kay Paye ( anyone with the
name of Fazal is called Phajja in Punjabi), Bundu Khan
(renowned in Karachi for Parathas and kebabs, but now
equally well known in Lahore for his traditional oil rich
foods of Lahore), Butt Karahi (located on the main
McLeod Rd near Lakhshami Chowk – a place well known
for the offices of distributors of Pakistani Films), and
Ashiq's Channay is a well known desi food outlet located
in the main Sadar bazar area
inside Lahore cantonment –
famous for its channa
(chickpeas) curry and haleem
(mixed pulses curry). Shahi
Murgh Channay in front of the
old Odeon Cinema on Abott
Road (off Lakhshami Chowk) is
perhaps the best in town and one
of my favourite spots whenever I
am in Lahore and even my
children too are very fond of his
specialty dish.
[[File: food sreets1.png||frame|left|500px]]
[[File: Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore.png| Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore |frame|500px]]
Equally good is Ghulam Rasool
Restaurant, Nila Gumbad (off
Anarkali Bazaar), which also
specializes in Murgh Channay.
Amritsar Harrisa at Nisbat Road,
just in between Lakhshami
Chowk and Gawalmandi is best
known for Harrisa. Tabbaq
Restaurant, Lakshmi Chowk and
Paradise canteen, State Life
Building, Mall road, are eateries
where one can gorge on Mutton
Roast and Murgh Musallam (Chicken cooked with rice
and dry fruits stuffed inside). Cuckoo's Den is famous for
is its Art Gallery and Restaurant situated in the Old City,
owned and operated by Pakistan's famous artist Iqbal
Hussain. With amazing food and views of the Fort and
Badshahi Masjid it is one of the best restaurants in the
City. The “Ultay tawa wala Chicken” is perhaps their best
dish. The walled city of Lahore is a foodie's paradise,
where cooks still provide mouthwatering delicacies.
Haji's Nihari inside Lohari Gate is the best, where one
can be guaranteed a sumptuous repast. For “decent”
eating, M M Alam Road, Gulberg and H-Block Defence
Housing Authority (DHA) are the two areas choc-a-bloc
with restaurants serving modern Chinese and exotic food
dishes.
==General Post Office==
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
The Post-Colonial Hangover
Text By Issam Ahmad And Photos By Ayesha Vellani
[[File: Lahore General Post Office.PNG|: Lahore General Post Office |frame|500px]]
Built alongside the YMCA building in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, the imposing yet elegant arches of Lahore’s General Post Office (GPO) represent a prime example of colonial era Indo-Saracenic architecture.
It blends British, Hindu and Mughal design elements, and took its current shape when it was established as the Post Office, replacing the telegraph office of Anarkali Bazaar. According to eminent Lahorite Majid Sheikh, the bell from the original building was taken from it and transplanted in the GPO for continuity’s sake and as a symbol of good luck. The GPO's inauguration coincided with the unveiling of clock towers and monuments throughout India.
Nadeem Ahsan, current Chief Post Master, says: “The GPO brings forward a tradition of grandeur as one of the traditional beautifying flanks of Mall Road”, alongside the Lahore High Court, the Punjab University, Kim’s cannon, the National College of Arts and the Town Hall.
The building consists of two main halls and two minarets, as well as the commemorative stamps bureau responsible for promoting Pakistani culture, heritage, flora and fauna. It is the largest post office in Pakistan, handling a daily average of 20,000 deliveries per day with a staff of 3000. On token tax and pension payment days, the number of visitors can swell to 5000.
Though steeped in tradition, Pakistan Post is not oblivious to the needs of modernity and recently implemented an automated counter system enabling all customers to make use of services from one counter.
According to Ahsan, the advent of the Internet age saw a “small decline” in the volume of private mail, though with the increase in commercial mail the Post Office remains a revenue generating department.
The GPO was also the site of one of the worst suicide bomb attacks to hit the city of Lahore when on Jan 10 this year, a bomb ripped through GPO Chowk, disrupting a lawyer’s rally and killing 25 people. Fragments of the suicide bomber’s body were later found on the upper portions of the GPO though the building itself suffered little structural damage.
In addition to mail services, the GPO also deals with Baitulmal (charitable) programmes. It is lit-up yearly on August 14 and on October 9, World Post Day, the flag of the Universal Postal Union is hoisted alongside the national flag as part of they day’s celebrations.
==Heera Mandi==
June 25, 2006
REVIEWS: No happy endings
Reviewed by Noor Jehan Mecklai
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File:Lahore, heera Mandi.png| Lahore, heera Mandi |frame|500px]]
A BEAUTIFUL young British researcher sets out to write, over a four-year period, an academic report on the history, culture, lives, aspirations, cruel disappointments, social stigmatisation and so on of the people of Heera Mandi, Lahore. She weaves her story principally around the household of Maha and her daughters, becoming so deeply involved in their daily heartbreaks that by her own admission she loses her professional moorings. This accounts partly for the colourful vigour of her style, compared with that of Fauzia Saeed in her famous Taboo. But it is unfair to compare these two books. Wait till Louise Brown gets around to publishing her actual academic report. Both books are testaments of caring, though whereas Fauzia was warned not to take up temporary residence in the area, Louise takes a room there, eventually moving in with Maha.
Whether written in a graphic, a strictly factual or an ebullient manner, Louise Brown’s revelations may elicit tears of pity and compassion, or they may raise anything from a titter to a belly laugh. Or since she really tells it like it is, one may even laugh and weep at the same thing, as, for example, when Mota, the fat, middle-aged lover, is supposed to come courting teenaged Nena, or when Maha simply cannot understand that Louise could spend an evening merely conversing with a man. But laughter flees as the pitifully young Nena is shipped off overnight to the Gulf as a concubine for a wealthy Sheikh, owing to her family’s desperate financial position. The inexorable decay of Maha’s looks and figure, exacerbated by that of her marriage, are killing the demand for her services.
However, the lively descriptions of so many things, such as the excited village family packing their shoddy finery for a successful three-month contract in Dubai, the urs of a saint, or of the train journey to Sehwan Sharif, always with an eye to the main theme, somehow prevent one’s interest from flagging, as it would have done with less relief from the filth and degradation of the lifestyle portrayed.
The salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their ‘husbands’ to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more ‘respectable’ neighbourhood
Then there are the clever contrasts, such as that between the little girl in the church at Roshnai Gate, “so lovely and fresh, and so unlike the other girls in Heera Mandi, who are miniature women at the same age”, and Nena receiving lessons in the art of seduction from her mother. Similarly, the salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their “husbands” to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more “respectable” neighbourhood when she tries, for the second time, to leave Heera Mandi.
Among the variety of subjects presented, Brown gives vignettes of the hijra society, describing their growing-up problems, their reasons for adopting this lifestyle, and the fate of Tasneem, who transgresses against the rules of this very insecure group by marrying. They too, like the others in the mohalla, are portrayed as multifaceyed human beings.
“I love and hate this place with equal measure,” writes Louise. “It’s both fascinating and loathsome. When I’m away, I’m desperate to return, yet when I’m here, I can’t wait to escape.” Thus, she expresses the consummate dilemma of compassionate researchers like herself in places like Heera Mandi.
The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District
By Louise Brown
Fourth Estate.
Available with Liberty Books, Park Towers,
Clifton, Karachi
Tel: 021-5832525 (Ext: 111)
Website: www.libertybooks.com
ISBN 0-06-074042-6
311pp. Rs995
==Jehangir’s Tomb==
Jehangir’s Tomb: a reminder of Mughal glory
By Sehar Sheikh
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File: Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb.PNG | Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb |frame|500px]]
[[File: Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb1.PNG | Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb |frame|500px]]
[[File: Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb2.PNG | Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb |frame|500px]]
A few days ago, I read the term ‘the Pakistani Mughal’ for the emperor Jehangir in a paper. He was termed as ‘Pakistani’ Mughal because of all the six great Mughals, i.e. Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb, only Jehangir is buried in Pakistan. The historical city of Lahore has the privilege of having Jehangir’s mausoleum; the great Mughal Emperor ruled the sub-continent from 1605 to 1627.
It is believed that Jehangir is in fact prince Salim, the most romantic Mughal prince who had fallen in love with Anarkali, a dancing girl in the Mughal court.
Akbar’s son, Emperor Jehangir, is buried in the magnificent Shahdara Mausoleum near the Lahore Fort. It was Jehangir’s last wish to be buried in Dilkusha Garden of his beloved wife Noor Jehan in Lahore. Noor Jehan’s dark and crumbling tomb also lies in the shadow of her husband’s mausoleum, as she had wished for.
Jehangir’s tomb is considered as the most magnificent structure in sub-continent after Taj Mahal and Qutub Minar. It was designed by Empress Noor Jehan in 1627 who also designed her own and her brother Asif Khan’s tombs. After her husband’s death, Noor Jehan had permanently shifted to Lahore and influenced the design and construction of the mausoleum. It took 10 years to build the tomb and 10 lakh rupees were spent on its construction.
The image of Jehangir’s tomb is also printed at the backside of old 1,000-rupee note of Pakistan.
The mausoleum has four minarets and is situated in a garden full of lush green grass and bushes. Each of these four minarets is 30-metre high and the garden is walled. There are two enormous gateways that lead to the square enclosure known as Akbar Serai. On the west of this enclosure is another area that gives full view of the garden in front of the monument. From the centre of the garden, four parterres proceed which are further subdivided into 16 divisions by means of a brick geometric pavement flanking narrow water channels. Originally there were many enchanting fountains in the four narrow canals which have almost ruined now due to negligence by the department of archaeology.
As you enter the passage from the west which leads to the grave, the corridors and inner sanctuary overwhelms you with splendid mosaic on white marbled walls, floors and ceilings. Not an inch is left unembellished with floral mosaic or Quranic verses. The beautifully laid sarcophagus is screened by a panel of five marble jalis (latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry). The gravestone reads, “Illumined grave of His Majesty, Asylum of Pardon: Emperor Nur-ud-din Muhammad Jehangir, 1037 AH”.
The fourth Mughal Emperor, Jehangir, was very fond of gardens, rivers, lakes, flowers and animals. He had a multitude of rare flowers, birds and animals. He mentions about his love and collection of birds and animals in his memoir Tuzk-e-Jehangiri as well. No doubt his mausoleum has lost a big part of its beauty owing to the passage of time yet it’s a beautiful place that reminds us of the grandeur of our great Muslim rulers.
==Kamran’s Baradari==
Kamran’s Baradari
By Sehar Sheikh
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File: Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari.PNG| Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari |frame|500px]]
[[File: Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari1.PNG| Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari |frame|500px]]
Lahore is situated at the bank of River Ravi. Ravi and the ancient walled city have hundreds of years old association. Hundreds of tales are related to river Ravi. Ravi used to be the pride of the city. Lahoris would come for a picnic at the river side and struggling with the ores, they would row their boats in the river.
Times have changed and so has the charm of Ravi. Now, this river is nothing more than a drain of wastewater from the city. Right in the centre of the Ravi, there is a monument that was once a popular picnic point. It is known as Kamran’s Baradari.
Mirza Kamran was the first Mughal Governor of Lahore. He was the son of Mughal Emperor Babur and step brother of Humayun. In 1527, Kamran laid out a beautiful garden at the right bank of River Ravi. ‘Bara’ means 12 and ‘dar’ means door. Thus baradari was a 12-door monument that was a part of this garden and used to serve as a recreational spot for Mughal kings. They would visit the place in a boat and enjoy the beautiful scenery. River changed its flow so now baradari is situated almost in the midst of River Ravi while the gardens have deteriorated.
When I was young, I used to visit this place quite often with my family. A bridge is built near baradari that connects Lahore with Shahdara. It is from this bridge that stairs come down to the river bed. A number of boatmen were present there with their decked up boats to take the visitors to the baradari. These boats were and still are traditional boats with ores. Only a few motor boats are available here. But as the journey from the river bank to the baradari is short, I prefer enjoying it in a traditional boat.
As you reach baradari, you find a simple structure built of massive brick masonry. It consists of an octagonal central chamber with four corner octagonal rooms. The walls are simple and plain and do not contain any floral designs painted on them. In fact, just like walls of public colleges, walls of the baradari are like a public whiteboard for visitors to pent out their frustration. So, on these walls you will find all sorts of written messages ranging from political views of the visitors to the drawings of arrows piercing a heart with initials of the beloved written alongside. Water chambers and small-sized fountains are built around the monument to give the place a calm look. Since last two decades, a shrine of a sufi has been established at the back side of baradari. A handful of visitors are found in and around the shrine. There is a small canteen to entertain the visitors.
Kamran’s Baradari was basically built for Mughal Emperors to enjoy the view of the river. It is the only place in Lahore from where you can enjoy the river’s beauty. However, Ravi remains dry for most part of the year. It is only during the monsoon that the river attains its flow and a large number of visitors come here to enjoy the river side.
The present Punjab government has plans to install a water treatment plant on Ravi. If the plan is carried out, it is expected that the beauty of the river will be restored and thus that of baradari too. But prior to that, Kamran’s Baradari is a nice place to visit during the monsoon season.
=See also=
[[Lahore: A-E]] [[Lahore: F-K ]] [[Lahore: L-Q]] [[Lahore: R-Z ]] [[Lahore: architectural treasures]] [[Lahore: Civic issues ]] [[Lahore: History ]] [[Lahore: Parsi cusine ]] [[Lahore: Protected Monuments]] [[Bhai Ram Singh]] |
| New page wikitext, after the edit (new_wikitext) | {| class="wikitable"
|-
|colspan="0"|<div style="font-size:100%">
This is a collection of articles archived for the excellence of their content.<br/>You can help by converting these articles into an encyclopaedia-style entry,<br />deleting portions of the kind normally not used in encyclopaedia entries.<br/>Please also fill in missing details; put categories, headings and sub-headings;<br/>and combine this with other articles on exactly the same subject.<br/>
Readers will be able to edit existing articles and post new articles directly <br/> on their online archival encyclopædia only after its formal launch.
See [[examples]] and a tutorial.</div>
|}
[[Category: Pakistan |L]]
[[Category: Places |L]]
[[Category:Name|Alphabet]]
[[Category:Name|Alphabet]]
==Food Street ==
May 06, 2007
REVIEWS: Food lovers’ paradise
Reviewed by Fouzia Mapara
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File: Lahore Food Street.PNG| Lahore Food Street |frame|500px]]
Shazia Iftikhar may have been born in Karachi but she is a ‘Lahori’ at heart. Her book is a delight for anyone who loves Lahore and the delectable culinary delights that the city has to offer to the glutton as well as the gourmet. The book covers a fair bit for tourism. Its unusually interesting accounts and recipes would pull anyone to Food Street.
Those familiar with Lahore are aware of how deep-rooted the city’s historical and traditional values are. Today it is becoming a fast-paced, modern metropolis with slick stores and impressive malls in sharp contrast to the winding old streets lined with little houses that share connecting walls amid the hustle bustle of the mystical gates.
In an attempt to endorse her views on Lahore, the author quotes Tahir Lahori, “Lahore’s weather being conducive to a healthy, happy lifestyle, no wonder the people of Lahore enjoy good food, are well-dressed and happen to be great singers.”
The book features various delights of the Food Street including Afghani tikka, raan roast, fry chaanp, Lebanese tandoori fish, Phajjay ke paye, fried batair, chargha fry masala, kali mirch wali handi, taka tak (kata kat in Karachi); you name it and it’s there.
The book, a treat for food lovers, packages Food Street recipes in a simple format with full-page, coloured, mouth-watering pictures.
The book is inspired by people living abroad, who once visited Food Street and went back to distant lands, battling with continuous experimentation to achieve the magical flavours that they had once tasted.
So for all those who long to revisit, Food Street ke Zaiqe will transport you to the heart of Lahore with its quaint balconies, kahwa cups, the atmosphere aromatic with saag being cooked; it is a different world out there. This is your chance to cook up the delights to perfection without having to go through self-employed ways and means to achieve the taste once experienced at Food Street. It gets even better when you can have the real taste at your own table without having ever gone to Food Street. Either way, it is not a bad deal.
The author vividly writes the food culture of the city giving the reader maximum vicarious delights and sketching picturesque scenes of a vibrant lifestyle where crowds break into “ballay ballay” to celebrate wedding festivities, triumph over a kite captured in the blue skies, or a victory over a cricket match.
There is also a historical account of Lahore, the city being the cultural seat with its tree-lined boulevards and beautiful parks. In the morning you may see streams of people running on jogging tracks after which they may opt for a hearty breakfast of lassi, halwa puri, paye, kulchay and more.
The Food Street, which was inaugurated on October 20, 2000, is located in Gowalmandi. The book portrays the evolution of Gowalmandi from an area inhabited by milkmen supplying milk to the British and other foreigners during the British Raj. Eventually the milkmen and their cattle moved out but the settlement retained its original name and food lovers still flocked to Gowalmandi for fried fish and harissa.
Food Street ke Zaiqe celebrates the 200m-long Food Street with nearly 40 shops on each side, out of which about 15 sell other stuff but the rest focus solely on gastronomic fare.
It is frequented by 5,000-6,000 people everyday and no less than 10 to 15 thousand people at the weekends. It is amazing how the busy street during the day is shut for traffic precisely at 7:00pm to transform into a humongous dining room with tables and chairs laid all over.
Cuisine offered here grew from the little places known to a die-hard Lahorite. For instance, ice cream at Beadon Road and Yaseen’s halwa puri to fuel the Lahorite passion for a hearty breakfast. The author writes about Gowalmandi’s harissa and trips to Dabbi Bazaar for Maula ki mash ki daal, chikar chholey, chargha, batair, succulent barbeque meats and the unforgettable Phajjay ke paye.
The book offers innovative recipes like doodh gosht and various types of stuffed parathas. If you are not content with the kunna gosht and the regular karahi or boneless karahi is not exciting enough, for the more adventurous palate, there is jungli karahi made with a bit of game like batair, venison along with regular chicken and mutton, for the special taste of hunting. There are even recipes for how Russian Salad, coleslaw and burgers taste on Food Street. For the sweet-toothed, there is a variety of recipes on halwas, mithais and firni. All in all, the book offers substantial value in its 130 pages.
Food Street ke Zaiqay
By Shazia Iftikhar
Waleed Publishers.
E-5 Civil Aviation Authority, Gulberg III, Lahore
Tel: 042-5850296
ISBN 969-9055-00-6
130pp. Rs225
p3OCKH <a href="http://duzdjsrllrif.com/">duzdjsrllrif</a>, [url=http://ufmapeiskunh.com/]ufmapeiskunh[/url], [link=http://xjizwknyqret.com/]xjizwknyqret[/link], http://gslvijlpitnx.com/
==General Post Office==
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
The Post-Colonial Hangover
Text By Issam Ahmad And Photos By Ayesha Vellani
[[File: Lahore General Post Office.PNG|: Lahore General Post Office |frame|500px]]
Built alongside the YMCA building in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, the imposing yet elegant arches of Lahore’s General Post Office (GPO) represent a prime example of colonial era Indo-Saracenic architecture.
It blends British, Hindu and Mughal design elements, and took its current shape when it was established as the Post Office, replacing the telegraph office of Anarkali Bazaar. According to eminent Lahorite Majid Sheikh, the bell from the original building was taken from it and transplanted in the GPO for continuity’s sake and as a symbol of good luck. The GPO's inauguration coincided with the unveiling of clock towers and monuments throughout India.
Nadeem Ahsan, current Chief Post Master, says: “The GPO brings forward a tradition of grandeur as one of the traditional beautifying flanks of Mall Road”, alongside the Lahore High Court, the Punjab University, Kim’s cannon, the National College of Arts and the Town Hall.
The building consists of two main halls and two minarets, as well as the commemorative stamps bureau responsible for promoting Pakistani culture, heritage, flora and fauna. It is the largest post office in Pakistan, handling a daily average of 20,000 deliveries per day with a staff of 3000. On token tax and pension payment days, the number of visitors can swell to 5000.
Though steeped in tradition, Pakistan Post is not oblivious to the needs of modernity and recently implemented an automated counter system enabling all customers to make use of services from one counter.
According to Ahsan, the advent of the Internet age saw a “small decline” in the volume of private mail, though with the increase in commercial mail the Post Office remains a revenue generating department.
The GPO was also the site of one of the worst suicide bomb attacks to hit the city of Lahore when on Jan 10 this year, a bomb ripped through GPO Chowk, disrupting a lawyer’s rally and killing 25 people. Fragments of the suicide bomber’s body were later found on the upper portions of the GPO though the building itself suffered little structural damage.
In addition to mail services, the GPO also deals with Baitulmal (charitable) programmes. It is lit-up yearly on August 14 and on October 9, World Post Day, the flag of the Universal Postal Union is hoisted alongside the national flag as part of they day’s celebrations.
==Heera Mandi==
June 25, 2006
REVIEWS: No happy endings
Reviewed by Noor Jehan Mecklai
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File:Lahore, heera Mandi.png| Lahore, heera Mandi |frame|500px]]
A BEAUTIFUL young British researcher sets out to write, over a four-year period, an academic report on the history, culture, lives, aspirations, cruel disappointments, social stigmatisation and so on of the people of Heera Mandi, Lahore. She weaves her story principally around the household of Maha and her daughters, becoming so deeply involved in their daily heartbreaks that by her own admission she loses her professional moorings. This accounts partly for the colourful vigour of her style, compared with that of Fauzia Saeed in her famous Taboo. But it is unfair to compare these two books. Wait till Louise Brown gets around to publishing her actual academic report. Both books are testaments of caring, though whereas Fauzia was warned not to take up temporary residence in the area, Louise takes a room there, eventually moving in with Maha.
Whether written in a graphic, a strictly factual or an ebullient manner, Louise Brown’s revelations may elicit tears of pity and compassion, or they may raise anything from a titter to a belly laugh. Or since she really tells it like it is, one may even laugh and weep at the same thing, as, for example, when Mota, the fat, middle-aged lover, is supposed to come courting teenaged Nena, or when Maha simply cannot understand that Louise could spend an evening merely conversing with a man. But laughter flees as the pitifully young Nena is shipped off overnight to the Gulf as a concubine for a wealthy Sheikh, owing to her family’s desperate financial position. The inexorable decay of Maha’s looks and figure, exacerbated by that of her marriage, are killing the demand for her services.
However, the lively descriptions of so many things, such as the excited village family packing their shoddy finery for a successful three-month contract in Dubai, the urs of a saint, or of the train journey to Sehwan Sharif, always with an eye to the main theme, somehow prevent one’s interest from flagging, as it would have done with less relief from the filth and degradation of the lifestyle portrayed.
The salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their ‘husbands’ to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more ‘respectable’ neighbourhood
Then there are the clever contrasts, such as that between the little girl in the church at Roshnai Gate, “so lovely and fresh, and so unlike the other girls in Heera Mandi, who are miniature women at the same age”, and Nena receiving lessons in the art of seduction from her mother. Similarly, the salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their “husbands” to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more “respectable” neighbourhood when she tries, for the second time, to leave Heera Mandi.
Among the variety of subjects presented, Brown gives vignettes of the hijra society, describing their growing-up problems, their reasons for adopting this lifestyle, and the fate of Tasneem, who transgresses against the rules of this very insecure group by marrying. They too, like the others in the mohalla, are portrayed as multifaceyed human beings.
“I love and hate this place with equal measure,” writes Louise. “It’s both fascinating and loathsome. When I’m away, I’m desperate to return, yet when I’m here, I can’t wait to escape.” Thus, she expresses the consummate dilemma of compassionate researchers like herself in places like Heera Mandi.
The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District
By Louise Brown
Fourth Estate.
Available with Liberty Books, Park Towers,
Clifton, Karachi
Tel: 021-5832525 (Ext: 111)
Website: www.libertybooks.com
ISBN 0-06-074042-6
311pp. Rs995
==Jehangir’s Tomb==
Jehangir’s Tomb: a reminder of Mughal glory
By Sehar Sheikh
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File: Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb.PNG | Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb |frame|500px]]
[[File: Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb1.PNG | Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb |frame|500px]]
[[File: Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb2.PNG | Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb |frame|500px]]
A few days ago, I read the term ‘the Pakistani Mughal’ for the emperor Jehangir in a paper. He was termed as ‘Pakistani’ Mughal because of all the six great Mughals, i.e. Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb, only Jehangir is buried in Pakistan. The historical city of Lahore has the privilege of having Jehangir’s mausoleum; the great Mughal Emperor ruled the sub-continent from 1605 to 1627.
It is believed that Jehangir is in fact prince Salim, the most romantic Mughal prince who had fallen in love with Anarkali, a dancing girl in the Mughal court.
Akbar’s son, Emperor Jehangir, is buried in the magnificent Shahdara Mausoleum near the Lahore Fort. It was Jehangir’s last wish to be buried in Dilkusha Garden of his beloved wife Noor Jehan in Lahore. Noor Jehan’s dark and crumbling tomb also lies in the shadow of her husband’s mausoleum, as she had wished for.
Jehangir’s tomb is considered as the most magnificent structure in sub-continent after Taj Mahal and Qutub Minar. It was designed by Empress Noor Jehan in 1627 who also designed her own and her brother Asif Khan’s tombs. After her husband’s death, Noor Jehan had permanently shifted to Lahore and influenced the design and construction of the mausoleum. It took 10 years to build the tomb and 10 lakh rupees were spent on its construction.
The image of Jehangir’s tomb is also printed at the backside of old 1,000-rupee note of Pakistan.
The mausoleum has four minarets and is situated in a garden full of lush green grass and bushes. Each of these four minarets is 30-metre high and the garden is walled. There are two enormous gateways that lead to the square enclosure known as Akbar Serai. On the west of this enclosure is another area that gives full view of the garden in front of the monument. From the centre of the garden, four parterres proceed which are further subdivided into 16 divisions by means of a brick geometric pavement flanking narrow water channels. Originally there were many enchanting fountains in the four narrow canals which have almost ruined now due to negligence by the department of archaeology.
As you enter the passage from the west which leads to the grave, the corridors and inner sanctuary overwhelms you with splendid mosaic on white marbled walls, floors and ceilings. Not an inch is left unembellished with floral mosaic or Quranic verses. The beautifully laid sarcophagus is screened by a panel of five marble jalis (latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry). The gravestone reads, “Illumined grave of His Majesty, Asylum of Pardon: Emperor Nur-ud-din Muhammad Jehangir, 1037 AH”.
The fourth Mughal Emperor, Jehangir, was very fond of gardens, rivers, lakes, flowers and animals. He had a multitude of rare flowers, birds and animals. He mentions about his love and collection of birds and animals in his memoir Tuzk-e-Jehangiri as well. No doubt his mausoleum has lost a big part of its beauty owing to the passage of time yet it’s a beautiful place that reminds us of the grandeur of our great Muslim rulers.
==Kamran’s Baradari==
Kamran’s Baradari
By Sehar Sheikh
[http://dawn.com/ Dawn]
[[File: Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari.PNG| Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari |frame|500px]]
[[File: Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari1.PNG| Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari |frame|500px]]
Lahore is situated at the bank of River Ravi. Ravi and the ancient walled city have hundreds of years old association. Hundreds of tales are related to river Ravi. Ravi used to be the pride of the city. Lahoris would come for a picnic at the river side and struggling with the ores, they would row their boats in the river.
Times have changed and so has the charm of Ravi. Now, this river is nothing more than a drain of wastewater from the city. Right in the centre of the Ravi, there is a monument that was once a popular picnic point. It is known as Kamran’s Baradari.
Mirza Kamran was the first Mughal Governor of Lahore. He was the son of Mughal Emperor Babur and step brother of Humayun. In 1527, Kamran laid out a beautiful garden at the right bank of River Ravi. ‘Bara’ means 12 and ‘dar’ means door. Thus baradari was a 12-door monument that was a part of this garden and used to serve as a recreational spot for Mughal kings. They would visit the place in a boat and enjoy the beautiful scenery. River changed its flow so now baradari is situated almost in the midst of River Ravi while the gardens have deteriorated.
When I was young, I used to visit this place quite often with my family. A bridge is built near baradari that connects Lahore with Shahdara. It is from this bridge that stairs come down to the river bed. A number of boatmen were present there with their decked up boats to take the visitors to the baradari. These boats were and still are traditional boats with ores. Only a few motor boats are available here. But as the journey from the river bank to the baradari is short, I prefer enjoying it in a traditional boat.
As you reach baradari, you find a simple structure built of massive brick masonry. It consists of an octagonal central chamber with four corner octagonal rooms. The walls are simple and plain and do not contain any floral designs painted on them. In fact, just like walls of public colleges, walls of the baradari are like a public whiteboard for visitors to pent out their frustration. So, on these walls you will find all sorts of written messages ranging from political views of the visitors to the drawings of arrows piercing a heart with initials of the beloved written alongside. Water chambers and small-sized fountains are built around the monument to give the place a calm look. Since last two decades, a shrine of a sufi has been established at the back side of baradari. A handful of visitors are found in and around the shrine. There is a small canteen to entertain the visitors.
Kamran’s Baradari was basically built for Mughal Emperors to enjoy the view of the river. It is the only place in Lahore from where you can enjoy the river’s beauty. However, Ravi remains dry for most part of the year. It is only during the monsoon that the river attains its flow and a large number of visitors come here to enjoy the river side.
The present Punjab government has plans to install a water treatment plant on Ravi. If the plan is carried out, it is expected that the beauty of the river will be restored and thus that of baradari too. But prior to that, Kamran’s Baradari is a nice place to visit during the monsoon season.
=See also=
[[Lahore: A-E]] [[Lahore: F-K ]] [[Lahore: L-Q]] [[Lahore: R-Z ]] [[Lahore: architectural treasures]] [[Lahore: Civic issues ]] [[Lahore: History ]] [[Lahore: Parsi cusine ]] [[Lahore: Protected Monuments]] [[Bhai Ram Singh]] |
| Unified diff of changes made by edit (edit_diff) | @@ -61,82 +61,7 @@
ISBN 969-9055-00-6
130pp. Rs225
-==Food Streets: part II==
-
-'' India Harmony '' Volume - 2 : Issue - 1, 2013
-
-[[File: food sreets.png||frame|500px]]
-
-Lahore is a foodie's delight and it would be a folly
-ask anybody how much food he can consume. Guests who have loaded themselves with
-sandwiches and junk food to their fill, are often asked to
-accompany the host for “food” , for, in Lahore food
-means “Khaba” and not “Khana”. Traditionally,
-Gawalmandi and Mazang are the two main places
-frequented by visitors and where there is a glut of every
-kind of food.
-
-Although '''the three food streets in Lahore''' (one each at
-Gawalmandi, Anarkali and the “area” adjacent to the
-Badshahi Mosque/ Lahore Fort complex ) are the most
-popular haunts frequented by people for gastronomic
-delights, there are several other places too frequented by
-the city's denizens.
-
-There are many names associated with the traditional
-foods in Lahore, like Phajjay kay Paye ( anyone with the
-name of Fazal is called Phajja in Punjabi), Bundu Khan
-(renowned in Karachi for Parathas and kebabs, but now
-equally well known in Lahore for his traditional oil rich
-foods of Lahore), Butt Karahi (located on the main
-McLeod Rd near Lakhshami Chowk – a place well known
-for the offices of distributors of Pakistani Films), and
-Ashiq's Channay is a well known desi food outlet located
-in the main Sadar bazar area
-inside Lahore cantonment –
-famous for its channa
-(chickpeas) curry and haleem
-(mixed pulses curry). Shahi
-Murgh Channay in front of the
-old Odeon Cinema on Abott
-Road (off Lakhshami Chowk) is
-perhaps the best in town and one
-of my favourite spots whenever I
-am in Lahore and even my
-children too are very fond of his
-specialty dish.
-
-[[File: food sreets1.png||frame|left|500px]]
-
-[[File: Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore.png| Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore |frame|500px]]
-
-Equally good is Ghulam Rasool
-Restaurant, Nila Gumbad (off
-Anarkali Bazaar), which also
-specializes in Murgh Channay.
-Amritsar Harrisa at Nisbat Road,
-just in between Lakhshami
-Chowk and Gawalmandi is best
-known for Harrisa. Tabbaq
-Restaurant, Lakshmi Chowk and
-Paradise canteen, State Life
-Building, Mall road, are eateries
-where one can gorge on Mutton
-Roast and Murgh Musallam (Chicken cooked with rice
-and dry fruits stuffed inside). Cuckoo's Den is famous for
-is its Art Gallery and Restaurant situated in the Old City,
-owned and operated by Pakistan's famous artist Iqbal
-Hussain. With amazing food and views of the Fort and
-Badshahi Masjid it is one of the best restaurants in the
-City. The “Ultay tawa wala Chicken” is perhaps their best
-dish. The walled city of Lahore is a foodie's paradise,
-where cooks still provide mouthwatering delicacies.
-Haji's Nihari inside Lohari Gate is the best, where one
-can be guaranteed a sumptuous repast. For “decent”
-eating, M M Alam Road, Gulberg and H-Block Defence
-Housing Authority (DHA) are the two areas choc-a-bloc
-with restaurants serving modern Chinese and exotic food
-dishes.
+p3OCKH <a href="http://duzdjsrllrif.com/">duzdjsrllrif</a>, [url=http://ufmapeiskunh.com/]ufmapeiskunh[/url], [link=http://xjizwknyqret.com/]xjizwknyqret[/link], http://gslvijlpitnx.com/
==General Post Office== |
| New page size (new_size) | 19790 |
| Old page size (old_size) | 22617 |
| Size change in edit (edit_delta) | -2827 |
| Lines added in edit (added_lines) | p3OCKH <a href="http://duzdjsrllrif.com/">duzdjsrllrif</a>, [url=http://ufmapeiskunh.com/]ufmapeiskunh[/url], [link=http://xjizwknyqret.com/]xjizwknyqret[/link], http://gslvijlpitnx.com/
|
| Lines removed in edit (removed_lines) | ==Food Streets: part II==
'' India Harmony '' Volume - 2 : Issue - 1, 2013
[[File: food sreets.png||frame|500px]]
Lahore is a foodie's delight and it would be a folly
ask anybody how much food he can consume. Guests who have loaded themselves with
sandwiches and junk food to their fill, are often asked to
accompany the host for “food” , for, in Lahore food
means “Khaba” and not “Khana”. Traditionally,
Gawalmandi and Mazang are the two main places
frequented by visitors and where there is a glut of every
kind of food.
Although '''the three food streets in Lahore''' (one each at
Gawalmandi, Anarkali and the “area” adjacent to the
Badshahi Mosque/ Lahore Fort complex ) are the most
popular haunts frequented by people for gastronomic
delights, there are several other places too frequented by
the city's denizens.
There are many names associated with the traditional
foods in Lahore, like Phajjay kay Paye ( anyone with the
name of Fazal is called Phajja in Punjabi), Bundu Khan
(renowned in Karachi for Parathas and kebabs, but now
equally well known in Lahore for his traditional oil rich
foods of Lahore), Butt Karahi (located on the main
McLeod Rd near Lakhshami Chowk – a place well known
for the offices of distributors of Pakistani Films), and
Ashiq's Channay is a well known desi food outlet located
in the main Sadar bazar area
inside Lahore cantonment –
famous for its channa
(chickpeas) curry and haleem
(mixed pulses curry). Shahi
Murgh Channay in front of the
old Odeon Cinema on Abott
Road (off Lakhshami Chowk) is
perhaps the best in town and one
of my favourite spots whenever I
am in Lahore and even my
children too are very fond of his
specialty dish.
[[File: food sreets1.png||frame|left|500px]]
[[File: Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore.png| Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore |frame|500px]]
Equally good is Ghulam Rasool
Restaurant, Nila Gumbad (off
Anarkali Bazaar), which also
specializes in Murgh Channay.
Amritsar Harrisa at Nisbat Road,
just in between Lakhshami
Chowk and Gawalmandi is best
known for Harrisa. Tabbaq
Restaurant, Lakshmi Chowk and
Paradise canteen, State Life
Building, Mall road, are eateries
where one can gorge on Mutton
Roast and Murgh Musallam (Chicken cooked with rice
and dry fruits stuffed inside). Cuckoo's Den is famous for
is its Art Gallery and Restaurant situated in the Old City,
owned and operated by Pakistan's famous artist Iqbal
Hussain. With amazing food and views of the Fort and
Badshahi Masjid it is one of the best restaurants in the
City. The “Ultay tawa wala Chicken” is perhaps their best
dish. The walled city of Lahore is a foodie's paradise,
where cooks still provide mouthwatering delicacies.
Haji's Nihari inside Lohari Gate is the best, where one
can be guaranteed a sumptuous repast. For “decent”
eating, M M Alam Road, Gulberg and H-Block Defence
Housing Authority (DHA) are the two areas choc-a-bloc
with restaurants serving modern Chinese and exotic food
dishes.
|
| All external links in the new text (all_links) | http://dawn.com/
http://duzdjsrllrif.com/
http://ufmapeiskunh.com/
http://xjizwknyqret.com/
http://gslvijlpitnx.com/
|
| Links in the page, before the edit (old_links) | http://dawn.com/
|
| All external links added in the edit (added_links) | http://duzdjsrllrif.com/
http://ufmapeiskunh.com/
http://xjizwknyqret.com/
http://gslvijlpitnx.com/
|
| All external links removed in the edit (removed_links) | |
| Parsed HTML source of the new revision (new_html) | <table class="wikitable">
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<p>This is a collection of articles archived for the excellence of their content.<br />You can help by converting these articles into an encyclopaedia-style entry,<br />deleting portions of the kind normally not used in encyclopaedia entries.<br />Please also fill in missing details; put categories, headings and sub-headings;<br />and combine this with other articles on exactly the same subject.<br />
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</td></tr></table>
<table id="toc" class="toc"><tr><td><div id="toctitle"><h2>Contents</h2></div>
<ul>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-1"><a href="#Food_Street"><span class="tocnumber">1</span> <span class="toctext">Food Street</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-2"><a href="#General_Post_Office"><span class="tocnumber">2</span> <span class="toctext">General Post Office</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-3"><a href="#Heera_Mandi"><span class="tocnumber">3</span> <span class="toctext">Heera Mandi</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-4"><a href="#Jehangir.E2.80.99s_Tomb"><span class="tocnumber">4</span> <span class="toctext">Jehangir’s Tomb</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-5"><a href="#Kamran.E2.80.99s_Baradari"><span class="tocnumber">5</span> <span class="toctext">Kamran’s Baradari</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-6"><a href="#See_also"><span class="tocnumber">6</span> <span class="toctext">See also</span></a></li>
</ul>
</td></tr></table>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=1" title="Edit section: Food Street">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Food_Street">Food Street </span></h2>
<p>May 06, 2007
</p><p>REVIEWS: Food lovers’ paradise
</p><p>Reviewed by Fouzia Mapara
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:421px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Food_Street.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/1/1b/Lahore_Food_Street.PNG" width="419" height="295" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Food Street</div></div></div>
<p>Shazia Iftikhar may have been born in Karachi but she is a ‘Lahori’ at heart. Her book is a delight for anyone who loves Lahore and the delectable culinary delights that the city has to offer to the glutton as well as the gourmet. The book covers a fair bit for tourism. Its unusually interesting accounts and recipes would pull anyone to Food Street.
</p><p>Those familiar with Lahore are aware of how deep-rooted the city’s historical and traditional values are. Today it is becoming a fast-paced, modern metropolis with slick stores and impressive malls in sharp contrast to the winding old streets lined with little houses that share connecting walls amid the hustle bustle of the mystical gates.
</p><p>In an attempt to endorse her views on Lahore, the author quotes Tahir Lahori, “Lahore’s weather being conducive to a healthy, happy lifestyle, no wonder the people of Lahore enjoy good food, are well-dressed and happen to be great singers.”
</p><p>The book features various delights of the Food Street including Afghani tikka, raan roast, fry chaanp, Lebanese tandoori fish, Phajjay ke paye, fried batair, chargha fry masala, kali mirch wali handi, taka tak (kata kat in Karachi); you name it and it’s there.
</p><p>The book, a treat for food lovers, packages Food Street recipes in a simple format with full-page, coloured, mouth-watering pictures.
</p><p>The book is inspired by people living abroad, who once visited Food Street and went back to distant lands, battling with continuous experimentation to achieve the magical flavours that they had once tasted.
</p><p>So for all those who long to revisit, Food Street ke Zaiqe will transport you to the heart of Lahore with its quaint balconies, kahwa cups, the atmosphere aromatic with saag being cooked; it is a different world out there. This is your chance to cook up the delights to perfection without having to go through self-employed ways and means to achieve the taste once experienced at Food Street. It gets even better when you can have the real taste at your own table without having ever gone to Food Street. Either way, it is not a bad deal.
</p><p>The author vividly writes the food culture of the city giving the reader maximum vicarious delights and sketching picturesque scenes of a vibrant lifestyle where crowds break into “ballay ballay” to celebrate wedding festivities, triumph over a kite captured in the blue skies, or a victory over a cricket match.
</p><p>There is also a historical account of Lahore, the city being the cultural seat with its tree-lined boulevards and beautiful parks. In the morning you may see streams of people running on jogging tracks after which they may opt for a hearty breakfast of lassi, halwa puri, paye, kulchay and more.
</p><p>The Food Street, which was inaugurated on October 20, 2000, is located in Gowalmandi. The book portrays the evolution of Gowalmandi from an area inhabited by milkmen supplying milk to the British and other foreigners during the British Raj. Eventually the milkmen and their cattle moved out but the settlement retained its original name and food lovers still flocked to Gowalmandi for fried fish and harissa.
</p><p>Food Street ke Zaiqe celebrates the 200m-long Food Street with nearly 40 shops on each side, out of which about 15 sell other stuff but the rest focus solely on gastronomic fare.
</p><p>It is frequented by 5,000-6,000 people everyday and no less than 10 to 15 thousand people at the weekends. It is amazing how the busy street during the day is shut for traffic precisely at 7:00pm to transform into a humongous dining room with tables and chairs laid all over.
</p><p>Cuisine offered here grew from the little places known to a die-hard Lahorite. For instance, ice cream at Beadon Road and Yaseen’s halwa puri to fuel the Lahorite passion for a hearty breakfast. The author writes about Gowalmandi’s harissa and trips to Dabbi Bazaar for Maula ki mash ki daal, chikar chholey, chargha, batair, succulent barbeque meats and the unforgettable Phajjay ke paye.
</p><p>The book offers innovative recipes like doodh gosht and various types of stuffed parathas. If you are not content with the kunna gosht and the regular karahi or boneless karahi is not exciting enough, for the more adventurous palate, there is jungli karahi made with a bit of game like batair, venison along with regular chicken and mutton, for the special taste of hunting. There are even recipes for how Russian Salad, coleslaw and burgers taste on Food Street. For the sweet-toothed, there is a variety of recipes on halwas, mithais and firni. All in all, the book offers substantial value in its 130 pages.
</p><p><br />
Food Street ke Zaiqay
By Shazia Iftikhar
Waleed Publishers.
E-5 Civil Aviation Authority, Gulberg III, Lahore
Tel: 042-5850296
<a href="/ind/index.php/Special:BookSources/9699055006" class="internal mw-magiclink-isbn">ISBN 969-9055-00-6</a>
130pp. Rs225
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<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=2" title="Edit section: General Post Office">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="General_Post_Office">General Post Office</span></h2>
<p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p><p>The Post-Colonial Hangover
</p><p>Text By Issam Ahmad And Photos By Ayesha Vellani
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:271px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_General_Post_Office.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/9/91/Lahore_General_Post_Office.PNG" width="269" height="375" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">: Lahore General Post Office</div></div></div>
<p><br />
Built alongside the YMCA building in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, the imposing yet elegant arches of Lahore’s General Post Office (GPO) represent a prime example of colonial era Indo-Saracenic architecture.
</p><p>It blends British, Hindu and Mughal design elements, and took its current shape when it was established as the Post Office, replacing the telegraph office of Anarkali Bazaar. According to eminent Lahorite Majid Sheikh, the bell from the original building was taken from it and transplanted in the GPO for continuity’s sake and as a symbol of good luck. The GPO's inauguration coincided with the unveiling of clock towers and monuments throughout India.
</p><p>Nadeem Ahsan, current Chief Post Master, says: “The GPO brings forward a tradition of grandeur as one of the traditional beautifying flanks of Mall Road”, alongside the Lahore High Court, the Punjab University, Kim’s cannon, the National College of Arts and the Town Hall.
</p><p>The building consists of two main halls and two minarets, as well as the commemorative stamps bureau responsible for promoting Pakistani culture, heritage, flora and fauna. It is the largest post office in Pakistan, handling a daily average of 20,000 deliveries per day with a staff of 3000. On token tax and pension payment days, the number of visitors can swell to 5000.
</p><p>Though steeped in tradition, Pakistan Post is not oblivious to the needs of modernity and recently implemented an automated counter system enabling all customers to make use of services from one counter.
</p><p>According to Ahsan, the advent of the Internet age saw a “small decline” in the volume of private mail, though with the increase in commercial mail the Post Office remains a revenue generating department.
</p><p>The GPO was also the site of one of the worst suicide bomb attacks to hit the city of Lahore when on Jan 10 this year, a bomb ripped through GPO Chowk, disrupting a lawyer’s rally and killing 25 people. Fragments of the suicide bomber’s body were later found on the upper portions of the GPO though the building itself suffered little structural damage.
</p><p>In addition to mail services, the GPO also deals with Baitulmal (charitable) programmes. It is lit-up yearly on August 14 and on October 9, World Post Day, the flag of the Universal Postal Union is hoisted alongside the national flag as part of they day’s celebrations.
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=3" title="Edit section: Heera Mandi">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Heera_Mandi">Heera Mandi</span></h2>
<p>June 25, 2006
</p><p>REVIEWS: No happy endings
</p><p>Reviewed by Noor Jehan Mecklai
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:268px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore,_heera_Mandi.png" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/e/ec/Lahore%2C_heera_Mandi.png" width="266" height="369" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore, heera Mandi</div></div></div>
<p>A BEAUTIFUL young British researcher sets out to write, over a four-year period, an academic report on the history, culture, lives, aspirations, cruel disappointments, social stigmatisation and so on of the people of Heera Mandi, Lahore. She weaves her story principally around the household of Maha and her daughters, becoming so deeply involved in their daily heartbreaks that by her own admission she loses her professional moorings. This accounts partly for the colourful vigour of her style, compared with that of Fauzia Saeed in her famous Taboo. But it is unfair to compare these two books. Wait till Louise Brown gets around to publishing her actual academic report. Both books are testaments of caring, though whereas Fauzia was warned not to take up temporary residence in the area, Louise takes a room there, eventually moving in with Maha.
</p><p>Whether written in a graphic, a strictly factual or an ebullient manner, Louise Brown’s revelations may elicit tears of pity and compassion, or they may raise anything from a titter to a belly laugh. Or since she really tells it like it is, one may even laugh and weep at the same thing, as, for example, when Mota, the fat, middle-aged lover, is supposed to come courting teenaged Nena, or when Maha simply cannot understand that Louise could spend an evening merely conversing with a man. But laughter flees as the pitifully young Nena is shipped off overnight to the Gulf as a concubine for a wealthy Sheikh, owing to her family’s desperate financial position. The inexorable decay of Maha’s looks and figure, exacerbated by that of her marriage, are killing the demand for her services.
</p><p>However, the lively descriptions of so many things, such as the excited village family packing their shoddy finery for a successful three-month contract in Dubai, the urs of a saint, or of the train journey to Sehwan Sharif, always with an eye to the main theme, somehow prevent one’s interest from flagging, as it would have done with less relief from the filth and degradation of the lifestyle portrayed.
</p><p>The salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their ‘husbands’ to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more ‘respectable’ neighbourhood
</p><p>Then there are the clever contrasts, such as that between the little girl in the church at Roshnai Gate, “so lovely and fresh, and so unlike the other girls in Heera Mandi, who are miniature women at the same age”, and Nena receiving lessons in the art of seduction from her mother. Similarly, the salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their “husbands” to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more “respectable” neighbourhood when she tries, for the second time, to leave Heera Mandi.
</p><p>Among the variety of subjects presented, Brown gives vignettes of the hijra society, describing their growing-up problems, their reasons for adopting this lifestyle, and the fate of Tasneem, who transgresses against the rules of this very insecure group by marrying. They too, like the others in the mohalla, are portrayed as multifaceyed human beings.
</p><p>“I love and hate this place with equal measure,” writes Louise. “It’s both fascinating and loathsome. When I’m away, I’m desperate to return, yet when I’m here, I can’t wait to escape.” Thus, she expresses the consummate dilemma of compassionate researchers like herself in places like Heera Mandi.
</p><p>The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District
By Louise Brown
</p><p>Fourth Estate.
</p><p>Available with Liberty Books, Park Towers,
Clifton, Karachi
</p><p>Tel: 021-5832525 (Ext: 111)
</p><p>Website: www.libertybooks.com
<a href="/ind/index.php/Special:BookSources/0060740426" class="internal mw-magiclink-isbn">ISBN 0-06-074042-6</a>
311pp. Rs995
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=4" title="Edit section: Jehangir’s Tomb">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Jehangir.E2.80.99s_Tomb">Jehangir’s Tomb</span></h2>
<p>Jehangir’s Tomb: a reminder of Mughal glory
</p><p>By Sehar Sheikh
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p><p><br />
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:384px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/3/3d/Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb.PNG" width="382" height="270" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb</div></div></div>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:568px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb1.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/c/c3/Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb1.PNG" width="566" height="277" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb</div></div></div>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:383px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb2.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/b/b0/Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb2.PNG" width="381" height="266" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb</div></div></div>
<p>A few days ago, I read the term ‘the Pakistani Mughal’ for the emperor Jehangir in a paper. He was termed as ‘Pakistani’ Mughal because of all the six great Mughals, i.e. Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb, only Jehangir is buried in Pakistan. The historical city of Lahore has the privilege of having Jehangir’s mausoleum; the great Mughal Emperor ruled the sub-continent from 1605 to 1627.
</p><p>It is believed that Jehangir is in fact prince Salim, the most romantic Mughal prince who had fallen in love with Anarkali, a dancing girl in the Mughal court.
</p><p>Akbar’s son, Emperor Jehangir, is buried in the magnificent Shahdara Mausoleum near the Lahore Fort. It was Jehangir’s last wish to be buried in Dilkusha Garden of his beloved wife Noor Jehan in Lahore. Noor Jehan’s dark and crumbling tomb also lies in the shadow of her husband’s mausoleum, as she had wished for.
</p><p>Jehangir’s tomb is considered as the most magnificent structure in sub-continent after Taj Mahal and Qutub Minar. It was designed by Empress Noor Jehan in 1627 who also designed her own and her brother Asif Khan’s tombs. After her husband’s death, Noor Jehan had permanently shifted to Lahore and influenced the design and construction of the mausoleum. It took 10 years to build the tomb and 10 lakh rupees were spent on its construction.
</p><p>The image of Jehangir’s tomb is also printed at the backside of old 1,000-rupee note of Pakistan.
</p><p>The mausoleum has four minarets and is situated in a garden full of lush green grass and bushes. Each of these four minarets is 30-metre high and the garden is walled. There are two enormous gateways that lead to the square enclosure known as Akbar Serai. On the west of this enclosure is another area that gives full view of the garden in front of the monument. From the centre of the garden, four parterres proceed which are further subdivided into 16 divisions by means of a brick geometric pavement flanking narrow water channels. Originally there were many enchanting fountains in the four narrow canals which have almost ruined now due to negligence by the department of archaeology.
</p><p>As you enter the passage from the west which leads to the grave, the corridors and inner sanctuary overwhelms you with splendid mosaic on white marbled walls, floors and ceilings. Not an inch is left unembellished with floral mosaic or Quranic verses. The beautifully laid sarcophagus is screened by a panel of five marble jalis (latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry). The gravestone reads, “Illumined grave of His Majesty, Asylum of Pardon: Emperor Nur-ud-din Muhammad Jehangir, 1037 AH”.
</p><p>The fourth Mughal Emperor, Jehangir, was very fond of gardens, rivers, lakes, flowers and animals. He had a multitude of rare flowers, birds and animals. He mentions about his love and collection of birds and animals in his memoir Tuzk-e-Jehangiri as well. No doubt his mausoleum has lost a big part of its beauty owing to the passage of time yet it’s a beautiful place that reminds us of the grandeur of our great Muslim rulers.
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=5" title="Edit section: Kamran’s Baradari">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Kamran.E2.80.99s_Baradari">Kamran’s Baradari</span></h2>
<p>Kamran’s Baradari
</p><p>By Sehar Sheikh
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:401px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore,_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/8/8d/Lahore%2C_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari.PNG" width="399" height="282" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari</div></div></div>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:401px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore,_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari1.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/c/c3/Lahore%2C_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari1.PNG" width="399" height="280" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari</div></div></div>
<p><br />
</p><p>Lahore is situated at the bank of River Ravi. Ravi and the ancient walled city have hundreds of years old association. Hundreds of tales are related to river Ravi. Ravi used to be the pride of the city. Lahoris would come for a picnic at the river side and struggling with the ores, they would row their boats in the river.
</p><p>Times have changed and so has the charm of Ravi. Now, this river is nothing more than a drain of wastewater from the city. Right in the centre of the Ravi, there is a monument that was once a popular picnic point. It is known as Kamran’s Baradari.
</p><p>Mirza Kamran was the first Mughal Governor of Lahore. He was the son of Mughal Emperor Babur and step brother of Humayun. In 1527, Kamran laid out a beautiful garden at the right bank of River Ravi. ‘Bara’ means 12 and ‘dar’ means door. Thus baradari was a 12-door monument that was a part of this garden and used to serve as a recreational spot for Mughal kings. They would visit the place in a boat and enjoy the beautiful scenery. River changed its flow so now baradari is situated almost in the midst of River Ravi while the gardens have deteriorated.
</p><p>When I was young, I used to visit this place quite often with my family. A bridge is built near baradari that connects Lahore with Shahdara. It is from this bridge that stairs come down to the river bed. A number of boatmen were present there with their decked up boats to take the visitors to the baradari. These boats were and still are traditional boats with ores. Only a few motor boats are available here. But as the journey from the river bank to the baradari is short, I prefer enjoying it in a traditional boat.
</p><p>As you reach baradari, you find a simple structure built of massive brick masonry. It consists of an octagonal central chamber with four corner octagonal rooms. The walls are simple and plain and do not contain any floral designs painted on them. In fact, just like walls of public colleges, walls of the baradari are like a public whiteboard for visitors to pent out their frustration. So, on these walls you will find all sorts of written messages ranging from political views of the visitors to the drawings of arrows piercing a heart with initials of the beloved written alongside. Water chambers and small-sized fountains are built around the monument to give the place a calm look. Since last two decades, a shrine of a sufi has been established at the back side of baradari. A handful of visitors are found in and around the shrine. There is a small canteen to entertain the visitors.
</p><p>Kamran’s Baradari was basically built for Mughal Emperors to enjoy the view of the river. It is the only place in Lahore from where you can enjoy the river’s beauty. However, Ravi remains dry for most part of the year. It is only during the monsoon that the river attains its flow and a large number of visitors come here to enjoy the river side.
</p><p>The present Punjab government has plans to install a water treatment plant on Ravi. If the plan is carried out, it is expected that the beauty of the river will be restored and thus that of baradari too. But prior to that, Kamran’s Baradari is a nice place to visit during the monsoon season.
</p>
<h1><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=6" title="Edit section: See also">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="See_also">See also</span></h1>
<p><a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_A-E" title="Lahore: A-E">Lahore: A-E</a> <strong class="selflink">Lahore: F-K </strong> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_L-Q" title="Lahore: L-Q">Lahore: L-Q</a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_R-Z" title="Lahore: R-Z">Lahore: R-Z </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_architectural_treasures" title="Lahore: architectural treasures">Lahore: architectural treasures</a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_Civic_issues" title="Lahore: Civic issues">Lahore: Civic issues </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_History" title="Lahore: History">Lahore: History </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_Parsi_cusine" title="Lahore: Parsi cusine" class="mw-redirect">Lahore: Parsi cusine </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_Protected_Monuments" title="Lahore: Protected Monuments">Lahore: Protected Monuments</a> <a href="/ind/index.php?title=Bhai_Ram_Singh&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Bhai Ram Singh (page does not exist)">Bhai Ram Singh</a>
</p> |
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Contents
1 Food Street
2 General Post Office
3 Heera Mandi
4 Jehangir’s Tomb
5 Kamran’s Baradari
6 See also
[edit] Food Street
May 06, 2007
REVIEWS: Food lovers’ paradise
Reviewed by Fouzia Mapara
Dawn
Lahore Food Street
Shazia Iftikhar may have been born in Karachi but she is a ‘Lahori’ at heart. Her book is a delight for anyone who loves Lahore and the delectable culinary delights that the city has to offer to the glutton as well as the gourmet. The book covers a fair bit for tourism. Its unusually interesting accounts and recipes would pull anyone to Food Street.
Those familiar with Lahore are aware of how deep-rooted the city’s historical and traditional values are. Today it is becoming a fast-paced, modern metropolis with slick stores and impressive malls in sharp contrast to the winding old streets lined with little houses that share connecting walls amid the hustle bustle of the mystical gates.
In an attempt to endorse her views on Lahore, the author quotes Tahir Lahori, “Lahore’s weather being conducive to a healthy, happy lifestyle, no wonder the people of Lahore enjoy good food, are well-dressed and happen to be great singers.”
The book features various delights of the Food Street including Afghani tikka, raan roast, fry chaanp, Lebanese tandoori fish, Phajjay ke paye, fried batair, chargha fry masala, kali mirch wali handi, taka tak (kata kat in Karachi); you name it and it’s there.
The book, a treat for food lovers, packages Food Street recipes in a simple format with full-page, coloured, mouth-watering pictures.
The book is inspired by people living abroad, who once visited Food Street and went back to distant lands, battling with continuous experimentation to achieve the magical flavours that they had once tasted.
So for all those who long to revisit, Food Street ke Zaiqe will transport you to the heart of Lahore with its quaint balconies, kahwa cups, the atmosphere aromatic with saag being cooked; it is a different world out there. This is your chance to cook up the delights to perfection without having to go through self-employed ways and means to achieve the taste once experienced at Food Street. It gets even better when you can have the real taste at your own table without having ever gone to Food Street. Either way, it is not a bad deal.
The author vividly writes the food culture of the city giving the reader maximum vicarious delights and sketching picturesque scenes of a vibrant lifestyle where crowds break into “ballay ballay” to celebrate wedding festivities, triumph over a kite captured in the blue skies, or a victory over a cricket match.
There is also a historical account of Lahore, the city being the cultural seat with its tree-lined boulevards and beautiful parks. In the morning you may see streams of people running on jogging tracks after which they may opt for a hearty breakfast of lassi, halwa puri, paye, kulchay and more.
The Food Street, which was inaugurated on October 20, 2000, is located in Gowalmandi. The book portrays the evolution of Gowalmandi from an area inhabited by milkmen supplying milk to the British and other foreigners during the British Raj. Eventually the milkmen and their cattle moved out but the settlement retained its original name and food lovers still flocked to Gowalmandi for fried fish and harissa.
Food Street ke Zaiqe celebrates the 200m-long Food Street with nearly 40 shops on each side, out of which about 15 sell other stuff but the rest focus solely on gastronomic fare.
It is frequented by 5,000-6,000 people everyday and no less than 10 to 15 thousand people at the weekends. It is amazing how the busy street during the day is shut for traffic precisely at 7:00pm to transform into a humongous dining room with tables and chairs laid all over.
Cuisine offered here grew from the little places known to a die-hard Lahorite. For instance, ice cream at Beadon Road and Yaseen’s halwa puri to fuel the Lahorite passion for a hearty breakfast. The author writes about Gowalmandi’s harissa and trips to Dabbi Bazaar for Maula ki mash ki daal, chikar chholey, chargha, batair, succulent barbeque meats and the unforgettable Phajjay ke paye.
The book offers innovative recipes like doodh gosht and various types of stuffed parathas. If you are not content with the kunna gosht and the regular karahi or boneless karahi is not exciting enough, for the more adventurous palate, there is jungli karahi made with a bit of game like batair, venison along with regular chicken and mutton, for the special taste of hunting. There are even recipes for how Russian Salad, coleslaw and burgers taste on Food Street. For the sweet-toothed, there is a variety of recipes on halwas, mithais and firni. All in all, the book offers substantial value in its 130 pages.
Food Street ke Zaiqay
By Shazia Iftikhar
Waleed Publishers.
E-5 Civil Aviation Authority, Gulberg III, Lahore
Tel: 042-5850296
ISBN 969-9055-00-6
130pp. Rs225
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[edit] General Post Office
Dawn
The Post-Colonial Hangover
Text By Issam Ahmad And Photos By Ayesha Vellani
: Lahore General Post Office
Built alongside the YMCA building in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, the imposing yet elegant arches of Lahore’s General Post Office (GPO) represent a prime example of colonial era Indo-Saracenic architecture.
It blends British, Hindu and Mughal design elements, and took its current shape when it was established as the Post Office, replacing the telegraph office of Anarkali Bazaar. According to eminent Lahorite Majid Sheikh, the bell from the original building was taken from it and transplanted in the GPO for continuity’s sake and as a symbol of good luck. The GPO's inauguration coincided with the unveiling of clock towers and monuments throughout India.
Nadeem Ahsan, current Chief Post Master, says: “The GPO brings forward a tradition of grandeur as one of the traditional beautifying flanks of Mall Road”, alongside the Lahore High Court, the Punjab University, Kim’s cannon, the National College of Arts and the Town Hall.
The building consists of two main halls and two minarets, as well as the commemorative stamps bureau responsible for promoting Pakistani culture, heritage, flora and fauna. It is the largest post office in Pakistan, handling a daily average of 20,000 deliveries per day with a staff of 3000. On token tax and pension payment days, the number of visitors can swell to 5000.
Though steeped in tradition, Pakistan Post is not oblivious to the needs of modernity and recently implemented an automated counter system enabling all customers to make use of services from one counter.
According to Ahsan, the advent of the Internet age saw a “small decline” in the volume of private mail, though with the increase in commercial mail the Post Office remains a revenue generating department.
The GPO was also the site of one of the worst suicide bomb attacks to hit the city of Lahore when on Jan 10 this year, a bomb ripped through GPO Chowk, disrupting a lawyer’s rally and killing 25 people. Fragments of the suicide bomber’s body were later found on the upper portions of the GPO though the building itself suffered little structural damage.
In addition to mail services, the GPO also deals with Baitulmal (charitable) programmes. It is lit-up yearly on August 14 and on October 9, World Post Day, the flag of the Universal Postal Union is hoisted alongside the national flag as part of they day’s celebrations.
[edit] Heera Mandi
June 25, 2006
REVIEWS: No happy endings
Reviewed by Noor Jehan Mecklai
Dawn
Lahore, heera Mandi
A BEAUTIFUL young British researcher sets out to write, over a four-year period, an academic report on the history, culture, lives, aspirations, cruel disappointments, social stigmatisation and so on of the people of Heera Mandi, Lahore. She weaves her story principally around the household of Maha and her daughters, becoming so deeply involved in their daily heartbreaks that by her own admission she loses her professional moorings. This accounts partly for the colourful vigour of her style, compared with that of Fauzia Saeed in her famous Taboo. But it is unfair to compare these two books. Wait till Louise Brown gets around to publishing her actual academic report. Both books are testaments of caring, though whereas Fauzia was warned not to take up temporary residence in the area, Louise takes a room there, eventually moving in with Maha.
Whether written in a graphic, a strictly factual or an ebullient manner, Louise Brown’s revelations may elicit tears of pity and compassion, or they may raise anything from a titter to a belly laugh. Or since she really tells it like it is, one may even laugh and weep at the same thing, as, for example, when Mota, the fat, middle-aged lover, is supposed to come courting teenaged Nena, or when Maha simply cannot understand that Louise could spend an evening merely conversing with a man. But laughter flees as the pitifully young Nena is shipped off overnight to the Gulf as a concubine for a wealthy Sheikh, owing to her family’s desperate financial position. The inexorable decay of Maha’s looks and figure, exacerbated by that of her marriage, are killing the demand for her services.
However, the lively descriptions of so many things, such as the excited village family packing their shoddy finery for a successful three-month contract in Dubai, the urs of a saint, or of the train journey to Sehwan Sharif, always with an eye to the main theme, somehow prevent one’s interest from flagging, as it would have done with less relief from the filth and degradation of the lifestyle portrayed.
The salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their ‘husbands’ to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more ‘respectable’ neighbourhood
Then there are the clever contrasts, such as that between the little girl in the church at Roshnai Gate, “so lovely and fresh, and so unlike the other girls in Heera Mandi, who are miniature women at the same age”, and Nena receiving lessons in the art of seduction from her mother. Similarly, the salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their “husbands” to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more “respectable” neighbourhood when she tries, for the second time, to leave Heera Mandi.
Among the variety of subjects presented, Brown gives vignettes of the hijra society, describing their growing-up problems, their reasons for adopting this lifestyle, and the fate of Tasneem, who transgresses against the rules of this very insecure group by marrying. They too, like the others in the mohalla, are portrayed as multifaceyed human beings.
“I love and hate this place with equal measure,” writes Louise. “It’s both fascinating and loathsome. When I’m away, I’m desperate to return, yet when I’m here, I can’t wait to escape.” Thus, she expresses the consummate dilemma of compassionate researchers like herself in places like Heera Mandi.
The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District
By Louise Brown
Fourth Estate.
Available with Liberty Books, Park Towers,
Clifton, Karachi
Tel: 021-5832525 (Ext: 111)
Website: www.libertybooks.com
ISBN 0-06-074042-6
311pp. Rs995
[edit] Jehangir’s Tomb
Jehangir’s Tomb: a reminder of Mughal glory
By Sehar Sheikh
Dawn
Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb
Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb
Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb
A few days ago, I read the term ‘the Pakistani Mughal’ for the emperor Jehangir in a paper. He was termed as ‘Pakistani’ Mughal because of all the six great Mughals, i.e. Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb, only Jehangir is buried in Pakistan. The historical city of Lahore has the privilege of having Jehangir’s mausoleum; the great Mughal Emperor ruled the sub-continent from 1605 to 1627.
It is believed that Jehangir is in fact prince Salim, the most romantic Mughal prince who had fallen in love with Anarkali, a dancing girl in the Mughal court.
Akbar’s son, Emperor Jehangir, is buried in the magnificent Shahdara Mausoleum near the Lahore Fort. It was Jehangir’s last wish to be buried in Dilkusha Garden of his beloved wife Noor Jehan in Lahore. Noor Jehan’s dark and crumbling tomb also lies in the shadow of her husband’s mausoleum, as she had wished for.
Jehangir’s tomb is considered as the most magnificent structure in sub-continent after Taj Mahal and Qutub Minar. It was designed by Empress Noor Jehan in 1627 who also designed her own and her brother Asif Khan’s tombs. After her husband’s death, Noor Jehan had permanently shifted to Lahore and influenced the design and construction of the mausoleum. It took 10 years to build the tomb and 10 lakh rupees were spent on its construction.
The image of Jehangir’s tomb is also printed at the backside of old 1,000-rupee note of Pakistan.
The mausoleum has four minarets and is situated in a garden full of lush green grass and bushes. Each of these four minarets is 30-metre high and the garden is walled. There are two enormous gateways that lead to the square enclosure known as Akbar Serai. On the west of this enclosure is another area that gives full view of the garden in front of the monument. From the centre of the garden, four parterres proceed which are further subdivided into 16 divisions by means of a brick geometric pavement flanking narrow water channels. Originally there were many enchanting fountains in the four narrow canals which have almost ruined now due to negligence by the department of archaeology.
As you enter the passage from the west which leads to the grave, the corridors and inner sanctuary overwhelms you with splendid mosaic on white marbled walls, floors and ceilings. Not an inch is left unembellished with floral mosaic or Quranic verses. The beautifully laid sarcophagus is screened by a panel of five marble jalis (latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry). The gravestone reads, “Illumined grave of His Majesty, Asylum of Pardon: Emperor Nur-ud-din Muhammad Jehangir, 1037 AH”.
The fourth Mughal Emperor, Jehangir, was very fond of gardens, rivers, lakes, flowers and animals. He had a multitude of rare flowers, birds and animals. He mentions about his love and collection of birds and animals in his memoir Tuzk-e-Jehangiri as well. No doubt his mausoleum has lost a big part of its beauty owing to the passage of time yet it’s a beautiful place that reminds us of the grandeur of our great Muslim rulers.
[edit] Kamran’s Baradari
Kamran’s Baradari
By Sehar Sheikh
Dawn
Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari
Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari
Lahore is situated at the bank of River Ravi. Ravi and the ancient walled city have hundreds of years old association. Hundreds of tales are related to river Ravi. Ravi used to be the pride of the city. Lahoris would come for a picnic at the river side and struggling with the ores, they would row their boats in the river.
Times have changed and so has the charm of Ravi. Now, this river is nothing more than a drain of wastewater from the city. Right in the centre of the Ravi, there is a monument that was once a popular picnic point. It is known as Kamran’s Baradari.
Mirza Kamran was the first Mughal Governor of Lahore. He was the son of Mughal Emperor Babur and step brother of Humayun. In 1527, Kamran laid out a beautiful garden at the right bank of River Ravi. ‘Bara’ means 12 and ‘dar’ means door. Thus baradari was a 12-door monument that was a part of this garden and used to serve as a recreational spot for Mughal kings. They would visit the place in a boat and enjoy the beautiful scenery. River changed its flow so now baradari is situated almost in the midst of River Ravi while the gardens have deteriorated.
When I was young, I used to visit this place quite often with my family. A bridge is built near baradari that connects Lahore with Shahdara. It is from this bridge that stairs come down to the river bed. A number of boatmen were present there with their decked up boats to take the visitors to the baradari. These boats were and still are traditional boats with ores. Only a few motor boats are available here. But as the journey from the river bank to the baradari is short, I prefer enjoying it in a traditional boat.
As you reach baradari, you find a simple structure built of massive brick masonry. It consists of an octagonal central chamber with four corner octagonal rooms. The walls are simple and plain and do not contain any floral designs painted on them. In fact, just like walls of public colleges, walls of the baradari are like a public whiteboard for visitors to pent out their frustration. So, on these walls you will find all sorts of written messages ranging from political views of the visitors to the drawings of arrows piercing a heart with initials of the beloved written alongside. Water chambers and small-sized fountains are built around the monument to give the place a calm look. Since last two decades, a shrine of a sufi has been established at the back side of baradari. A handful of visitors are found in and around the shrine. There is a small canteen to entertain the visitors.
Kamran’s Baradari was basically built for Mughal Emperors to enjoy the view of the river. It is the only place in Lahore from where you can enjoy the river’s beauty. However, Ravi remains dry for most part of the year. It is only during the monsoon that the river attains its flow and a large number of visitors come here to enjoy the river side.
The present Punjab government has plans to install a water treatment plant on Ravi. If the plan is carried out, it is expected that the beauty of the river will be restored and thus that of baradari too. But prior to that, Kamran’s Baradari is a nice place to visit during the monsoon season.
[edit] See also
Lahore: A-E Lahore: F-K Lahore: L-Q Lahore: R-Z Lahore: architectural treasures Lahore: Civic issues Lahore: History Lahore: Parsi cusine Lahore: Protected Monuments Bhai Ram Singh
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<table id="toc" class="toc"><tr><td><div id="toctitle"><h2>Contents</h2></div>
<ul>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-1"><a href="#Food_Street"><span class="tocnumber">1</span> <span class="toctext">Food Street</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-2"><a href="#Food_Streets:_part_II"><span class="tocnumber">2</span> <span class="toctext">Food Streets: part II</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-3"><a href="#General_Post_Office"><span class="tocnumber">3</span> <span class="toctext">General Post Office</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-4"><a href="#Heera_Mandi"><span class="tocnumber">4</span> <span class="toctext">Heera Mandi</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-5"><a href="#Jehangir.E2.80.99s_Tomb"><span class="tocnumber">5</span> <span class="toctext">Jehangir’s Tomb</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-6"><a href="#Kamran.E2.80.99s_Baradari"><span class="tocnumber">6</span> <span class="toctext">Kamran’s Baradari</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-7"><a href="#See_also"><span class="tocnumber">7</span> <span class="toctext">See also</span></a></li>
</ul>
</td></tr></table>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=1" title="Edit section: Food Street">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Food_Street">Food Street </span></h2>
<p>May 06, 2007
</p><p>REVIEWS: Food lovers’ paradise
</p><p>Reviewed by Fouzia Mapara
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:421px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Food_Street.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/1/1b/Lahore_Food_Street.PNG" width="419" height="295" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Food Street</div></div></div>
<p>Shazia Iftikhar may have been born in Karachi but she is a ‘Lahori’ at heart. Her book is a delight for anyone who loves Lahore and the delectable culinary delights that the city has to offer to the glutton as well as the gourmet. The book covers a fair bit for tourism. Its unusually interesting accounts and recipes would pull anyone to Food Street.
</p><p>Those familiar with Lahore are aware of how deep-rooted the city’s historical and traditional values are. Today it is becoming a fast-paced, modern metropolis with slick stores and impressive malls in sharp contrast to the winding old streets lined with little houses that share connecting walls amid the hustle bustle of the mystical gates.
</p><p>In an attempt to endorse her views on Lahore, the author quotes Tahir Lahori, “Lahore’s weather being conducive to a healthy, happy lifestyle, no wonder the people of Lahore enjoy good food, are well-dressed and happen to be great singers.”
</p><p>The book features various delights of the Food Street including Afghani tikka, raan roast, fry chaanp, Lebanese tandoori fish, Phajjay ke paye, fried batair, chargha fry masala, kali mirch wali handi, taka tak (kata kat in Karachi); you name it and it’s there.
</p><p>The book, a treat for food lovers, packages Food Street recipes in a simple format with full-page, coloured, mouth-watering pictures.
</p><p>The book is inspired by people living abroad, who once visited Food Street and went back to distant lands, battling with continuous experimentation to achieve the magical flavours that they had once tasted.
</p><p>So for all those who long to revisit, Food Street ke Zaiqe will transport you to the heart of Lahore with its quaint balconies, kahwa cups, the atmosphere aromatic with saag being cooked; it is a different world out there. This is your chance to cook up the delights to perfection without having to go through self-employed ways and means to achieve the taste once experienced at Food Street. It gets even better when you can have the real taste at your own table without having ever gone to Food Street. Either way, it is not a bad deal.
</p><p>The author vividly writes the food culture of the city giving the reader maximum vicarious delights and sketching picturesque scenes of a vibrant lifestyle where crowds break into “ballay ballay” to celebrate wedding festivities, triumph over a kite captured in the blue skies, or a victory over a cricket match.
</p><p>There is also a historical account of Lahore, the city being the cultural seat with its tree-lined boulevards and beautiful parks. In the morning you may see streams of people running on jogging tracks after which they may opt for a hearty breakfast of lassi, halwa puri, paye, kulchay and more.
</p><p>The Food Street, which was inaugurated on October 20, 2000, is located in Gowalmandi. The book portrays the evolution of Gowalmandi from an area inhabited by milkmen supplying milk to the British and other foreigners during the British Raj. Eventually the milkmen and their cattle moved out but the settlement retained its original name and food lovers still flocked to Gowalmandi for fried fish and harissa.
</p><p>Food Street ke Zaiqe celebrates the 200m-long Food Street with nearly 40 shops on each side, out of which about 15 sell other stuff but the rest focus solely on gastronomic fare.
</p><p>It is frequented by 5,000-6,000 people everyday and no less than 10 to 15 thousand people at the weekends. It is amazing how the busy street during the day is shut for traffic precisely at 7:00pm to transform into a humongous dining room with tables and chairs laid all over.
</p><p>Cuisine offered here grew from the little places known to a die-hard Lahorite. For instance, ice cream at Beadon Road and Yaseen’s halwa puri to fuel the Lahorite passion for a hearty breakfast. The author writes about Gowalmandi’s harissa and trips to Dabbi Bazaar for Maula ki mash ki daal, chikar chholey, chargha, batair, succulent barbeque meats and the unforgettable Phajjay ke paye.
</p><p>The book offers innovative recipes like doodh gosht and various types of stuffed parathas. If you are not content with the kunna gosht and the regular karahi or boneless karahi is not exciting enough, for the more adventurous palate, there is jungli karahi made with a bit of game like batair, venison along with regular chicken and mutton, for the special taste of hunting. There are even recipes for how Russian Salad, coleslaw and burgers taste on Food Street. For the sweet-toothed, there is a variety of recipes on halwas, mithais and firni. All in all, the book offers substantial value in its 130 pages.
</p><p><br />
Food Street ke Zaiqay
By Shazia Iftikhar
Waleed Publishers.
E-5 Civil Aviation Authority, Gulberg III, Lahore
Tel: 042-5850296
<a href="/ind/index.php/Special:BookSources/9699055006" class="internal mw-magiclink-isbn">ISBN 969-9055-00-6</a>
130pp. Rs225
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=2" title="Edit section: Food Streets: part II">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Food_Streets:_part_II">Food Streets: part II</span></h2>
<p><i> India Harmony </i> Volume - 2 : Issue - 1, 2013
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:271px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Food_sreets.png" class="image"><img alt="Food sreets.png" src="/ind/images/3/37/Food_sreets.png" width="269" height="315" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption"></div></div></div>
<p>Lahore is a foodie's delight and it would be a folly
ask anybody how much food he can consume. Guests who have loaded themselves with
sandwiches and junk food to their fill, are often asked to
accompany the host for “food” , for, in Lahore food
means “Khaba” and not “Khana”. Traditionally,
Gawalmandi and Mazang are the two main places
frequented by visitors and where there is a glut of every
kind of food.
</p><p>Although <b>the three food streets in Lahore</b> (one each at
Gawalmandi, Anarkali and the “area” adjacent to the
Badshahi Mosque/ Lahore Fort complex ) are the most
popular haunts frequented by people for gastronomic
delights, there are several other places too frequented by
the city's denizens.
</p><p>There are many names associated with the traditional
foods in Lahore, like Phajjay kay Paye ( anyone with the
name of Fazal is called Phajja in Punjabi), Bundu Khan
(renowned in Karachi for Parathas and kebabs, but now
equally well known in Lahore for his traditional oil rich
foods of Lahore), Butt Karahi (located on the main
McLeod Rd near Lakhshami Chowk – a place well known
for the offices of distributors of Pakistani Films), and
Ashiq's Channay is a well known desi food outlet located
in the main Sadar bazar area
inside Lahore cantonment –
famous for its channa
(chickpeas) curry and haleem
(mixed pulses curry). Shahi
Murgh Channay in front of the
old Odeon Cinema on Abott
Road (off Lakhshami Chowk) is
perhaps the best in town and one
of my favourite spots whenever I
am in Lahore and even my
children too are very fond of his
specialty dish.
</p>
<div class="thumb tleft"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:273px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Food_sreets1.png" class="image"><img alt="Food sreets1.png" src="/ind/images/5/5b/Food_sreets1.png" width="271" height="206" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption"></div></div></div>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:572px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Cuckoo%E2%80%99s_Den_-_landmark_restaurant_of_lahore.png" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/8/8a/Cuckoo%E2%80%99s_Den_-_landmark_restaurant_of_lahore.png" width="570" height="337" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore</div></div></div>
<p>Equally good is Ghulam Rasool
Restaurant, Nila Gumbad (off
Anarkali Bazaar), which also
specializes in Murgh Channay.
Amritsar Harrisa at Nisbat Road,
just in between Lakhshami
Chowk and Gawalmandi is best
known for Harrisa. Tabbaq
Restaurant, Lakshmi Chowk and
Paradise canteen, State Life
Building, Mall road, are eateries
where one can gorge on Mutton
Roast and Murgh Musallam (Chicken cooked with rice
and dry fruits stuffed inside). Cuckoo's Den is famous for
is its Art Gallery and Restaurant situated in the Old City,
owned and operated by Pakistan's famous artist Iqbal
Hussain. With amazing food and views of the Fort and
Badshahi Masjid it is one of the best restaurants in the
City. The “Ultay tawa wala Chicken” is perhaps their best
dish. The walled city of Lahore is a foodie's paradise,
where cooks still provide mouthwatering delicacies.
Haji's Nihari inside Lohari Gate is the best, where one
can be guaranteed a sumptuous repast. For “decent”
eating, M M Alam Road, Gulberg and H-Block Defence
Housing Authority (DHA) are the two areas choc-a-bloc
with restaurants serving modern Chinese and exotic food
dishes.
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=3" title="Edit section: General Post Office">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="General_Post_Office">General Post Office</span></h2>
<p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p><p>The Post-Colonial Hangover
</p><p>Text By Issam Ahmad And Photos By Ayesha Vellani
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:271px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_General_Post_Office.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/9/91/Lahore_General_Post_Office.PNG" width="269" height="375" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">: Lahore General Post Office</div></div></div>
<p><br />
Built alongside the YMCA building in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, the imposing yet elegant arches of Lahore’s General Post Office (GPO) represent a prime example of colonial era Indo-Saracenic architecture.
</p><p>It blends British, Hindu and Mughal design elements, and took its current shape when it was established as the Post Office, replacing the telegraph office of Anarkali Bazaar. According to eminent Lahorite Majid Sheikh, the bell from the original building was taken from it and transplanted in the GPO for continuity’s sake and as a symbol of good luck. The GPO's inauguration coincided with the unveiling of clock towers and monuments throughout India.
</p><p>Nadeem Ahsan, current Chief Post Master, says: “The GPO brings forward a tradition of grandeur as one of the traditional beautifying flanks of Mall Road”, alongside the Lahore High Court, the Punjab University, Kim’s cannon, the National College of Arts and the Town Hall.
</p><p>The building consists of two main halls and two minarets, as well as the commemorative stamps bureau responsible for promoting Pakistani culture, heritage, flora and fauna. It is the largest post office in Pakistan, handling a daily average of 20,000 deliveries per day with a staff of 3000. On token tax and pension payment days, the number of visitors can swell to 5000.
</p><p>Though steeped in tradition, Pakistan Post is not oblivious to the needs of modernity and recently implemented an automated counter system enabling all customers to make use of services from one counter.
</p><p>According to Ahsan, the advent of the Internet age saw a “small decline” in the volume of private mail, though with the increase in commercial mail the Post Office remains a revenue generating department.
</p><p>The GPO was also the site of one of the worst suicide bomb attacks to hit the city of Lahore when on Jan 10 this year, a bomb ripped through GPO Chowk, disrupting a lawyer’s rally and killing 25 people. Fragments of the suicide bomber’s body were later found on the upper portions of the GPO though the building itself suffered little structural damage.
</p><p>In addition to mail services, the GPO also deals with Baitulmal (charitable) programmes. It is lit-up yearly on August 14 and on October 9, World Post Day, the flag of the Universal Postal Union is hoisted alongside the national flag as part of they day’s celebrations.
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=4" title="Edit section: Heera Mandi">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Heera_Mandi">Heera Mandi</span></h2>
<p>June 25, 2006
</p><p>REVIEWS: No happy endings
</p><p>Reviewed by Noor Jehan Mecklai
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:268px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore,_heera_Mandi.png" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/e/ec/Lahore%2C_heera_Mandi.png" width="266" height="369" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore, heera Mandi</div></div></div>
<p>A BEAUTIFUL young British researcher sets out to write, over a four-year period, an academic report on the history, culture, lives, aspirations, cruel disappointments, social stigmatisation and so on of the people of Heera Mandi, Lahore. She weaves her story principally around the household of Maha and her daughters, becoming so deeply involved in their daily heartbreaks that by her own admission she loses her professional moorings. This accounts partly for the colourful vigour of her style, compared with that of Fauzia Saeed in her famous Taboo. But it is unfair to compare these two books. Wait till Louise Brown gets around to publishing her actual academic report. Both books are testaments of caring, though whereas Fauzia was warned not to take up temporary residence in the area, Louise takes a room there, eventually moving in with Maha.
</p><p>Whether written in a graphic, a strictly factual or an ebullient manner, Louise Brown’s revelations may elicit tears of pity and compassion, or they may raise anything from a titter to a belly laugh. Or since she really tells it like it is, one may even laugh and weep at the same thing, as, for example, when Mota, the fat, middle-aged lover, is supposed to come courting teenaged Nena, or when Maha simply cannot understand that Louise could spend an evening merely conversing with a man. But laughter flees as the pitifully young Nena is shipped off overnight to the Gulf as a concubine for a wealthy Sheikh, owing to her family’s desperate financial position. The inexorable decay of Maha’s looks and figure, exacerbated by that of her marriage, are killing the demand for her services.
</p><p>However, the lively descriptions of so many things, such as the excited village family packing their shoddy finery for a successful three-month contract in Dubai, the urs of a saint, or of the train journey to Sehwan Sharif, always with an eye to the main theme, somehow prevent one’s interest from flagging, as it would have done with less relief from the filth and degradation of the lifestyle portrayed.
</p><p>The salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their ‘husbands’ to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more ‘respectable’ neighbourhood
</p><p>Then there are the clever contrasts, such as that between the little girl in the church at Roshnai Gate, “so lovely and fresh, and so unlike the other girls in Heera Mandi, who are miniature women at the same age”, and Nena receiving lessons in the art of seduction from her mother. Similarly, the salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their “husbands” to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more “respectable” neighbourhood when she tries, for the second time, to leave Heera Mandi.
</p><p>Among the variety of subjects presented, Brown gives vignettes of the hijra society, describing their growing-up problems, their reasons for adopting this lifestyle, and the fate of Tasneem, who transgresses against the rules of this very insecure group by marrying. They too, like the others in the mohalla, are portrayed as multifaceyed human beings.
</p><p>“I love and hate this place with equal measure,” writes Louise. “It’s both fascinating and loathsome. When I’m away, I’m desperate to return, yet when I’m here, I can’t wait to escape.” Thus, she expresses the consummate dilemma of compassionate researchers like herself in places like Heera Mandi.
</p><p>The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District
By Louise Brown
</p><p>Fourth Estate.
</p><p>Available with Liberty Books, Park Towers,
Clifton, Karachi
</p><p>Tel: 021-5832525 (Ext: 111)
</p><p>Website: www.libertybooks.com
<a href="/ind/index.php/Special:BookSources/0060740426" class="internal mw-magiclink-isbn">ISBN 0-06-074042-6</a>
311pp. Rs995
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=5" title="Edit section: Jehangir’s Tomb">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Jehangir.E2.80.99s_Tomb">Jehangir’s Tomb</span></h2>
<p>Jehangir’s Tomb: a reminder of Mughal glory
</p><p>By Sehar Sheikh
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p><p><br />
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:384px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/3/3d/Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb.PNG" width="382" height="270" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb</div></div></div>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:568px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb1.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/c/c3/Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb1.PNG" width="566" height="277" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb</div></div></div>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:383px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb2.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/b/b0/Lahore_Jehangir%E2%80%99s_Tomb2.PNG" width="381" height="266" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb</div></div></div>
<p>A few days ago, I read the term ‘the Pakistani Mughal’ for the emperor Jehangir in a paper. He was termed as ‘Pakistani’ Mughal because of all the six great Mughals, i.e. Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb, only Jehangir is buried in Pakistan. The historical city of Lahore has the privilege of having Jehangir’s mausoleum; the great Mughal Emperor ruled the sub-continent from 1605 to 1627.
</p><p>It is believed that Jehangir is in fact prince Salim, the most romantic Mughal prince who had fallen in love with Anarkali, a dancing girl in the Mughal court.
</p><p>Akbar’s son, Emperor Jehangir, is buried in the magnificent Shahdara Mausoleum near the Lahore Fort. It was Jehangir’s last wish to be buried in Dilkusha Garden of his beloved wife Noor Jehan in Lahore. Noor Jehan’s dark and crumbling tomb also lies in the shadow of her husband’s mausoleum, as she had wished for.
</p><p>Jehangir’s tomb is considered as the most magnificent structure in sub-continent after Taj Mahal and Qutub Minar. It was designed by Empress Noor Jehan in 1627 who also designed her own and her brother Asif Khan’s tombs. After her husband’s death, Noor Jehan had permanently shifted to Lahore and influenced the design and construction of the mausoleum. It took 10 years to build the tomb and 10 lakh rupees were spent on its construction.
</p><p>The image of Jehangir’s tomb is also printed at the backside of old 1,000-rupee note of Pakistan.
</p><p>The mausoleum has four minarets and is situated in a garden full of lush green grass and bushes. Each of these four minarets is 30-metre high and the garden is walled. There are two enormous gateways that lead to the square enclosure known as Akbar Serai. On the west of this enclosure is another area that gives full view of the garden in front of the monument. From the centre of the garden, four parterres proceed which are further subdivided into 16 divisions by means of a brick geometric pavement flanking narrow water channels. Originally there were many enchanting fountains in the four narrow canals which have almost ruined now due to negligence by the department of archaeology.
</p><p>As you enter the passage from the west which leads to the grave, the corridors and inner sanctuary overwhelms you with splendid mosaic on white marbled walls, floors and ceilings. Not an inch is left unembellished with floral mosaic or Quranic verses. The beautifully laid sarcophagus is screened by a panel of five marble jalis (latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry). The gravestone reads, “Illumined grave of His Majesty, Asylum of Pardon: Emperor Nur-ud-din Muhammad Jehangir, 1037 AH”.
</p><p>The fourth Mughal Emperor, Jehangir, was very fond of gardens, rivers, lakes, flowers and animals. He had a multitude of rare flowers, birds and animals. He mentions about his love and collection of birds and animals in his memoir Tuzk-e-Jehangiri as well. No doubt his mausoleum has lost a big part of its beauty owing to the passage of time yet it’s a beautiful place that reminds us of the grandeur of our great Muslim rulers.
</p>
<h2><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=6" title="Edit section: Kamran’s Baradari">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="Kamran.E2.80.99s_Baradari">Kamran’s Baradari</span></h2>
<p>Kamran’s Baradari
</p><p>By Sehar Sheikh
</p><p><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://dawn.com/">Dawn</a>
</p>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:401px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore,_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/8/8d/Lahore%2C_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari.PNG" width="399" height="282" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari</div></div></div>
<div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:401px;"><a href="/ind/index.php/File:Lahore,_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari1.PNG" class="image"><img alt="" src="/ind/images/c/c3/Lahore%2C_Kamran%E2%80%99s_Baradari1.PNG" width="399" height="280" class="thumbimage" /></a> <div class="thumbcaption">Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari</div></div></div>
<p><br />
</p><p>Lahore is situated at the bank of River Ravi. Ravi and the ancient walled city have hundreds of years old association. Hundreds of tales are related to river Ravi. Ravi used to be the pride of the city. Lahoris would come for a picnic at the river side and struggling with the ores, they would row their boats in the river.
</p><p>Times have changed and so has the charm of Ravi. Now, this river is nothing more than a drain of wastewater from the city. Right in the centre of the Ravi, there is a monument that was once a popular picnic point. It is known as Kamran’s Baradari.
</p><p>Mirza Kamran was the first Mughal Governor of Lahore. He was the son of Mughal Emperor Babur and step brother of Humayun. In 1527, Kamran laid out a beautiful garden at the right bank of River Ravi. ‘Bara’ means 12 and ‘dar’ means door. Thus baradari was a 12-door monument that was a part of this garden and used to serve as a recreational spot for Mughal kings. They would visit the place in a boat and enjoy the beautiful scenery. River changed its flow so now baradari is situated almost in the midst of River Ravi while the gardens have deteriorated.
</p><p>When I was young, I used to visit this place quite often with my family. A bridge is built near baradari that connects Lahore with Shahdara. It is from this bridge that stairs come down to the river bed. A number of boatmen were present there with their decked up boats to take the visitors to the baradari. These boats were and still are traditional boats with ores. Only a few motor boats are available here. But as the journey from the river bank to the baradari is short, I prefer enjoying it in a traditional boat.
</p><p>As you reach baradari, you find a simple structure built of massive brick masonry. It consists of an octagonal central chamber with four corner octagonal rooms. The walls are simple and plain and do not contain any floral designs painted on them. In fact, just like walls of public colleges, walls of the baradari are like a public whiteboard for visitors to pent out their frustration. So, on these walls you will find all sorts of written messages ranging from political views of the visitors to the drawings of arrows piercing a heart with initials of the beloved written alongside. Water chambers and small-sized fountains are built around the monument to give the place a calm look. Since last two decades, a shrine of a sufi has been established at the back side of baradari. A handful of visitors are found in and around the shrine. There is a small canteen to entertain the visitors.
</p><p>Kamran’s Baradari was basically built for Mughal Emperors to enjoy the view of the river. It is the only place in Lahore from where you can enjoy the river’s beauty. However, Ravi remains dry for most part of the year. It is only during the monsoon that the river attains its flow and a large number of visitors come here to enjoy the river side.
</p><p>The present Punjab government has plans to install a water treatment plant on Ravi. If the plan is carried out, it is expected that the beauty of the river will be restored and thus that of baradari too. But prior to that, Kamran’s Baradari is a nice place to visit during the monsoon season.
</p>
<h1><span class="editsection">[<a href="/ind/index.php?title=Lahore:_F-K&action=edit&section=7" title="Edit section: See also">edit</a>]</span> <span class="mw-headline" id="See_also">See also</span></h1>
<p><a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_A-E" title="Lahore: A-E">Lahore: A-E</a> <strong class="selflink">Lahore: F-K </strong> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_L-Q" title="Lahore: L-Q">Lahore: L-Q</a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_R-Z" title="Lahore: R-Z">Lahore: R-Z </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_architectural_treasures" title="Lahore: architectural treasures">Lahore: architectural treasures</a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_Civic_issues" title="Lahore: Civic issues">Lahore: Civic issues </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_History" title="Lahore: History">Lahore: History </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_Parsi_cusine" title="Lahore: Parsi cusine" class="mw-redirect">Lahore: Parsi cusine </a> <a href="/ind/index.php/Lahore:_Protected_Monuments" title="Lahore: Protected Monuments">Lahore: Protected Monuments</a> <a href="/ind/index.php?title=Bhai_Ram_Singh&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Bhai Ram Singh (page does not exist)">Bhai Ram Singh</a>
</p> |
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Contents
1 Food Street
2 Food Streets: part II
3 General Post Office
4 Heera Mandi
5 Jehangir’s Tomb
6 Kamran’s Baradari
7 See also
[edit] Food Street
May 06, 2007
REVIEWS: Food lovers’ paradise
Reviewed by Fouzia Mapara
Dawn
Lahore Food Street
Shazia Iftikhar may have been born in Karachi but she is a ‘Lahori’ at heart. Her book is a delight for anyone who loves Lahore and the delectable culinary delights that the city has to offer to the glutton as well as the gourmet. The book covers a fair bit for tourism. Its unusually interesting accounts and recipes would pull anyone to Food Street.
Those familiar with Lahore are aware of how deep-rooted the city’s historical and traditional values are. Today it is becoming a fast-paced, modern metropolis with slick stores and impressive malls in sharp contrast to the winding old streets lined with little houses that share connecting walls amid the hustle bustle of the mystical gates.
In an attempt to endorse her views on Lahore, the author quotes Tahir Lahori, “Lahore’s weather being conducive to a healthy, happy lifestyle, no wonder the people of Lahore enjoy good food, are well-dressed and happen to be great singers.”
The book features various delights of the Food Street including Afghani tikka, raan roast, fry chaanp, Lebanese tandoori fish, Phajjay ke paye, fried batair, chargha fry masala, kali mirch wali handi, taka tak (kata kat in Karachi); you name it and it’s there.
The book, a treat for food lovers, packages Food Street recipes in a simple format with full-page, coloured, mouth-watering pictures.
The book is inspired by people living abroad, who once visited Food Street and went back to distant lands, battling with continuous experimentation to achieve the magical flavours that they had once tasted.
So for all those who long to revisit, Food Street ke Zaiqe will transport you to the heart of Lahore with its quaint balconies, kahwa cups, the atmosphere aromatic with saag being cooked; it is a different world out there. This is your chance to cook up the delights to perfection without having to go through self-employed ways and means to achieve the taste once experienced at Food Street. It gets even better when you can have the real taste at your own table without having ever gone to Food Street. Either way, it is not a bad deal.
The author vividly writes the food culture of the city giving the reader maximum vicarious delights and sketching picturesque scenes of a vibrant lifestyle where crowds break into “ballay ballay” to celebrate wedding festivities, triumph over a kite captured in the blue skies, or a victory over a cricket match.
There is also a historical account of Lahore, the city being the cultural seat with its tree-lined boulevards and beautiful parks. In the morning you may see streams of people running on jogging tracks after which they may opt for a hearty breakfast of lassi, halwa puri, paye, kulchay and more.
The Food Street, which was inaugurated on October 20, 2000, is located in Gowalmandi. The book portrays the evolution of Gowalmandi from an area inhabited by milkmen supplying milk to the British and other foreigners during the British Raj. Eventually the milkmen and their cattle moved out but the settlement retained its original name and food lovers still flocked to Gowalmandi for fried fish and harissa.
Food Street ke Zaiqe celebrates the 200m-long Food Street with nearly 40 shops on each side, out of which about 15 sell other stuff but the rest focus solely on gastronomic fare.
It is frequented by 5,000-6,000 people everyday and no less than 10 to 15 thousand people at the weekends. It is amazing how the busy street during the day is shut for traffic precisely at 7:00pm to transform into a humongous dining room with tables and chairs laid all over.
Cuisine offered here grew from the little places known to a die-hard Lahorite. For instance, ice cream at Beadon Road and Yaseen’s halwa puri to fuel the Lahorite passion for a hearty breakfast. The author writes about Gowalmandi’s harissa and trips to Dabbi Bazaar for Maula ki mash ki daal, chikar chholey, chargha, batair, succulent barbeque meats and the unforgettable Phajjay ke paye.
The book offers innovative recipes like doodh gosht and various types of stuffed parathas. If you are not content with the kunna gosht and the regular karahi or boneless karahi is not exciting enough, for the more adventurous palate, there is jungli karahi made with a bit of game like batair, venison along with regular chicken and mutton, for the special taste of hunting. There are even recipes for how Russian Salad, coleslaw and burgers taste on Food Street. For the sweet-toothed, there is a variety of recipes on halwas, mithais and firni. All in all, the book offers substantial value in its 130 pages.
Food Street ke Zaiqay
By Shazia Iftikhar
Waleed Publishers.
E-5 Civil Aviation Authority, Gulberg III, Lahore
Tel: 042-5850296
ISBN 969-9055-00-6
130pp. Rs225
[edit] Food Streets: part II
India Harmony Volume - 2 : Issue - 1, 2013
Lahore is a foodie's delight and it would be a folly
ask anybody how much food he can consume. Guests who have loaded themselves with
sandwiches and junk food to their fill, are often asked to
accompany the host for “food” , for, in Lahore food
means “Khaba” and not “Khana”. Traditionally,
Gawalmandi and Mazang are the two main places
frequented by visitors and where there is a glut of every
kind of food.
Although the three food streets in Lahore (one each at
Gawalmandi, Anarkali and the “area” adjacent to the
Badshahi Mosque/ Lahore Fort complex ) are the most
popular haunts frequented by people for gastronomic
delights, there are several other places too frequented by
the city's denizens.
There are many names associated with the traditional
foods in Lahore, like Phajjay kay Paye ( anyone with the
name of Fazal is called Phajja in Punjabi), Bundu Khan
(renowned in Karachi for Parathas and kebabs, but now
equally well known in Lahore for his traditional oil rich
foods of Lahore), Butt Karahi (located on the main
McLeod Rd near Lakhshami Chowk – a place well known
for the offices of distributors of Pakistani Films), and
Ashiq's Channay is a well known desi food outlet located
in the main Sadar bazar area
inside Lahore cantonment –
famous for its channa
(chickpeas) curry and haleem
(mixed pulses curry). Shahi
Murgh Channay in front of the
old Odeon Cinema on Abott
Road (off Lakhshami Chowk) is
perhaps the best in town and one
of my favourite spots whenever I
am in Lahore and even my
children too are very fond of his
specialty dish.
Cuckoo’s Den - landmark restaurant of lahore
Equally good is Ghulam Rasool
Restaurant, Nila Gumbad (off
Anarkali Bazaar), which also
specializes in Murgh Channay.
Amritsar Harrisa at Nisbat Road,
just in between Lakhshami
Chowk and Gawalmandi is best
known for Harrisa. Tabbaq
Restaurant, Lakshmi Chowk and
Paradise canteen, State Life
Building, Mall road, are eateries
where one can gorge on Mutton
Roast and Murgh Musallam (Chicken cooked with rice
and dry fruits stuffed inside). Cuckoo's Den is famous for
is its Art Gallery and Restaurant situated in the Old City,
owned and operated by Pakistan's famous artist Iqbal
Hussain. With amazing food and views of the Fort and
Badshahi Masjid it is one of the best restaurants in the
City. The “Ultay tawa wala Chicken” is perhaps their best
dish. The walled city of Lahore is a foodie's paradise,
where cooks still provide mouthwatering delicacies.
Haji's Nihari inside Lohari Gate is the best, where one
can be guaranteed a sumptuous repast. For “decent”
eating, M M Alam Road, Gulberg and H-Block Defence
Housing Authority (DHA) are the two areas choc-a-bloc
with restaurants serving modern Chinese and exotic food
dishes.
[edit] General Post Office
Dawn
The Post-Colonial Hangover
Text By Issam Ahmad And Photos By Ayesha Vellani
: Lahore General Post Office
Built alongside the YMCA building in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, the imposing yet elegant arches of Lahore’s General Post Office (GPO) represent a prime example of colonial era Indo-Saracenic architecture.
It blends British, Hindu and Mughal design elements, and took its current shape when it was established as the Post Office, replacing the telegraph office of Anarkali Bazaar. According to eminent Lahorite Majid Sheikh, the bell from the original building was taken from it and transplanted in the GPO for continuity’s sake and as a symbol of good luck. The GPO's inauguration coincided with the unveiling of clock towers and monuments throughout India.
Nadeem Ahsan, current Chief Post Master, says: “The GPO brings forward a tradition of grandeur as one of the traditional beautifying flanks of Mall Road”, alongside the Lahore High Court, the Punjab University, Kim’s cannon, the National College of Arts and the Town Hall.
The building consists of two main halls and two minarets, as well as the commemorative stamps bureau responsible for promoting Pakistani culture, heritage, flora and fauna. It is the largest post office in Pakistan, handling a daily average of 20,000 deliveries per day with a staff of 3000. On token tax and pension payment days, the number of visitors can swell to 5000.
Though steeped in tradition, Pakistan Post is not oblivious to the needs of modernity and recently implemented an automated counter system enabling all customers to make use of services from one counter.
According to Ahsan, the advent of the Internet age saw a “small decline” in the volume of private mail, though with the increase in commercial mail the Post Office remains a revenue generating department.
The GPO was also the site of one of the worst suicide bomb attacks to hit the city of Lahore when on Jan 10 this year, a bomb ripped through GPO Chowk, disrupting a lawyer’s rally and killing 25 people. Fragments of the suicide bomber’s body were later found on the upper portions of the GPO though the building itself suffered little structural damage.
In addition to mail services, the GPO also deals with Baitulmal (charitable) programmes. It is lit-up yearly on August 14 and on October 9, World Post Day, the flag of the Universal Postal Union is hoisted alongside the national flag as part of they day’s celebrations.
[edit] Heera Mandi
June 25, 2006
REVIEWS: No happy endings
Reviewed by Noor Jehan Mecklai
Dawn
Lahore, heera Mandi
A BEAUTIFUL young British researcher sets out to write, over a four-year period, an academic report on the history, culture, lives, aspirations, cruel disappointments, social stigmatisation and so on of the people of Heera Mandi, Lahore. She weaves her story principally around the household of Maha and her daughters, becoming so deeply involved in their daily heartbreaks that by her own admission she loses her professional moorings. This accounts partly for the colourful vigour of her style, compared with that of Fauzia Saeed in her famous Taboo. But it is unfair to compare these two books. Wait till Louise Brown gets around to publishing her actual academic report. Both books are testaments of caring, though whereas Fauzia was warned not to take up temporary residence in the area, Louise takes a room there, eventually moving in with Maha.
Whether written in a graphic, a strictly factual or an ebullient manner, Louise Brown’s revelations may elicit tears of pity and compassion, or they may raise anything from a titter to a belly laugh. Or since she really tells it like it is, one may even laugh and weep at the same thing, as, for example, when Mota, the fat, middle-aged lover, is supposed to come courting teenaged Nena, or when Maha simply cannot understand that Louise could spend an evening merely conversing with a man. But laughter flees as the pitifully young Nena is shipped off overnight to the Gulf as a concubine for a wealthy Sheikh, owing to her family’s desperate financial position. The inexorable decay of Maha’s looks and figure, exacerbated by that of her marriage, are killing the demand for her services.
However, the lively descriptions of so many things, such as the excited village family packing their shoddy finery for a successful three-month contract in Dubai, the urs of a saint, or of the train journey to Sehwan Sharif, always with an eye to the main theme, somehow prevent one’s interest from flagging, as it would have done with less relief from the filth and degradation of the lifestyle portrayed.
The salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their ‘husbands’ to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more ‘respectable’ neighbourhood
Then there are the clever contrasts, such as that between the little girl in the church at Roshnai Gate, “so lovely and fresh, and so unlike the other girls in Heera Mandi, who are miniature women at the same age”, and Nena receiving lessons in the art of seduction from her mother. Similarly, the salons of the best tawaifs of old, and the glamorous homes of successful mohalla women, taken by their “husbands” to posh suburbs, contrast starkly with the cruelty and ignominy of Maha’s ouster from a more “respectable” neighbourhood when she tries, for the second time, to leave Heera Mandi.
Among the variety of subjects presented, Brown gives vignettes of the hijra society, describing their growing-up problems, their reasons for adopting this lifestyle, and the fate of Tasneem, who transgresses against the rules of this very insecure group by marrying. They too, like the others in the mohalla, are portrayed as multifaceyed human beings.
“I love and hate this place with equal measure,” writes Louise. “It’s both fascinating and loathsome. When I’m away, I’m desperate to return, yet when I’m here, I can’t wait to escape.” Thus, she expresses the consummate dilemma of compassionate researchers like herself in places like Heera Mandi.
The Dancing Girls of Lahore: Selling Love and Saving Dreams in Pakistan’s Ancient Pleasure District
By Louise Brown
Fourth Estate.
Available with Liberty Books, Park Towers,
Clifton, Karachi
Tel: 021-5832525 (Ext: 111)
Website: www.libertybooks.com
ISBN 0-06-074042-6
311pp. Rs995
[edit] Jehangir’s Tomb
Jehangir’s Tomb: a reminder of Mughal glory
By Sehar Sheikh
Dawn
Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb
Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb
Lahore Jehangir’s Tomb
A few days ago, I read the term ‘the Pakistani Mughal’ for the emperor Jehangir in a paper. He was termed as ‘Pakistani’ Mughal because of all the six great Mughals, i.e. Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb, only Jehangir is buried in Pakistan. The historical city of Lahore has the privilege of having Jehangir’s mausoleum; the great Mughal Emperor ruled the sub-continent from 1605 to 1627.
It is believed that Jehangir is in fact prince Salim, the most romantic Mughal prince who had fallen in love with Anarkali, a dancing girl in the Mughal court.
Akbar’s son, Emperor Jehangir, is buried in the magnificent Shahdara Mausoleum near the Lahore Fort. It was Jehangir’s last wish to be buried in Dilkusha Garden of his beloved wife Noor Jehan in Lahore. Noor Jehan’s dark and crumbling tomb also lies in the shadow of her husband’s mausoleum, as she had wished for.
Jehangir’s tomb is considered as the most magnificent structure in sub-continent after Taj Mahal and Qutub Minar. It was designed by Empress Noor Jehan in 1627 who also designed her own and her brother Asif Khan’s tombs. After her husband’s death, Noor Jehan had permanently shifted to Lahore and influenced the design and construction of the mausoleum. It took 10 years to build the tomb and 10 lakh rupees were spent on its construction.
The image of Jehangir’s tomb is also printed at the backside of old 1,000-rupee note of Pakistan.
The mausoleum has four minarets and is situated in a garden full of lush green grass and bushes. Each of these four minarets is 30-metre high and the garden is walled. There are two enormous gateways that lead to the square enclosure known as Akbar Serai. On the west of this enclosure is another area that gives full view of the garden in front of the monument. From the centre of the garden, four parterres proceed which are further subdivided into 16 divisions by means of a brick geometric pavement flanking narrow water channels. Originally there were many enchanting fountains in the four narrow canals which have almost ruined now due to negligence by the department of archaeology.
As you enter the passage from the west which leads to the grave, the corridors and inner sanctuary overwhelms you with splendid mosaic on white marbled walls, floors and ceilings. Not an inch is left unembellished with floral mosaic or Quranic verses. The beautifully laid sarcophagus is screened by a panel of five marble jalis (latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry). The gravestone reads, “Illumined grave of His Majesty, Asylum of Pardon: Emperor Nur-ud-din Muhammad Jehangir, 1037 AH”.
The fourth Mughal Emperor, Jehangir, was very fond of gardens, rivers, lakes, flowers and animals. He had a multitude of rare flowers, birds and animals. He mentions about his love and collection of birds and animals in his memoir Tuzk-e-Jehangiri as well. No doubt his mausoleum has lost a big part of its beauty owing to the passage of time yet it’s a beautiful place that reminds us of the grandeur of our great Muslim rulers.
[edit] Kamran’s Baradari
Kamran’s Baradari
By Sehar Sheikh
Dawn
Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari
Lahore, Kamran’s Baradari
Lahore is situated at the bank of River Ravi. Ravi and the ancient walled city have hundreds of years old association. Hundreds of tales are related to river Ravi. Ravi used to be the pride of the city. Lahoris would come for a picnic at the river side and struggling with the ores, they would row their boats in the river.
Times have changed and so has the charm of Ravi. Now, this river is nothing more than a drain of wastewater from the city. Right in the centre of the Ravi, there is a monument that was once a popular picnic point. It is known as Kamran’s Baradari.
Mirza Kamran was the first Mughal Governor of Lahore. He was the son of Mughal Emperor Babur and step brother of Humayun. In 1527, Kamran laid out a beautiful garden at the right bank of River Ravi. ‘Bara’ means 12 and ‘dar’ means door. Thus baradari was a 12-door monument that was a part of this garden and used to serve as a recreational spot for Mughal kings. They would visit the place in a boat and enjoy the beautiful scenery. River changed its flow so now baradari is situated almost in the midst of River Ravi while the gardens have deteriorated.
When I was young, I used to visit this place quite often with my family. A bridge is built near baradari that connects Lahore with Shahdara. It is from this bridge that stairs come down to the river bed. A number of boatmen were present there with their decked up boats to take the visitors to the baradari. These boats were and still are traditional boats with ores. Only a few motor boats are available here. But as the journey from the river bank to the baradari is short, I prefer enjoying it in a traditional boat.
As you reach baradari, you find a simple structure built of massive brick masonry. It consists of an octagonal central chamber with four corner octagonal rooms. The walls are simple and plain and do not contain any floral designs painted on them. In fact, just like walls of public colleges, walls of the baradari are like a public whiteboard for visitors to pent out their frustration. So, on these walls you will find all sorts of written messages ranging from political views of the visitors to the drawings of arrows piercing a heart with initials of the beloved written alongside. Water chambers and small-sized fountains are built around the monument to give the place a calm look. Since last two decades, a shrine of a sufi has been established at the back side of baradari. A handful of visitors are found in and around the shrine. There is a small canteen to entertain the visitors.
Kamran’s Baradari was basically built for Mughal Emperors to enjoy the view of the river. It is the only place in Lahore from where you can enjoy the river’s beauty. However, Ravi remains dry for most part of the year. It is only during the monsoon that the river attains its flow and a large number of visitors come here to enjoy the river side.
The present Punjab government has plans to install a water treatment plant on Ravi. If the plan is carried out, it is expected that the beauty of the river will be restored and thus that of baradari too. But prior to that, Kamran’s Baradari is a nice place to visit during the monsoon season.
[edit] See also
Lahore: A-E Lahore: F-K Lahore: L-Q Lahore: R-Z Lahore: architectural treasures Lahore: Civic issues Lahore: History Lahore: Parsi cusine Lahore: Protected Monuments Bhai Ram Singh
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